| Author |
Topic:
LED Blade Q and A's
|
acerocket
Registered:
Jan '06
|
Date Posted:
1/29 7:03am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
|
TheMuffin posted:
I would think anodizing would be cheaper. After all, all they would be doing is electrifying a water based solution with what equates to food coloring in it.
I was debating that myself though. While Powder Coating looks gorgeous, anodizing will hold up to just about anything since the color actually becomes a part of the aluminum. It doesn't just sink into the pores.
Uh, not quite.
To anodize properly, it is a multi-step process and the chemicals and equipment are not cheap.
First, you need to finish your part with an appropriate finish (polished, brushed, and or blasted).
Then it needs to be degreased in a heated solution to clean and degrease the part.
Then you will need to de-oxidize the part in a second heated bath of de-oxidizer. This is to remove any traces of oxidation from the surface so the anodizing will grow. - Aluminum begins to oxidize the minute it comes in contact with air and anozing will not grow on oxidation.
After that, it will be anodized in a bath of water and acid with a constant current power source.
Then it can be dyed (usually in a heated solution).
Finally, the dye will need a sealant in a heated tank to protect the anodized film from fading over time.
As far as the color becoming part of the aluminum, that is not true either. Anodize is a microscopic porous layer of hydroxide monohydrate that is literally grown on the surface of the aluminum part. This 'honeycomb' layer is what accepts the dye and then must ultimately be sealed to fill the microscopic pores. This coating is extremely thin but suprisingly tough. While it is a tough coating, it can still be scratched and dulled if handled roughly (dropping it, throwing it, using it as a hammer, etc).
Don't be fooled by people who say it can be done in the kitchen with a few pots and pans. You will be very unhappy with the results. I have done anodizing before and I still have my kit - I just need to rebuy all the chemicals so I can set it up again after moving (the moving company would not transfer the 30 gallons of hazardous chemicals so i had to dump them before the move). Perhaps I may offer my services in the future if all goes according to plan.
|
|
|
Quote Reply |
Active Topic Notification |
Private Message |
Post History
|
TheMuffin
Registered:
Nov '05
|
Date Posted:
1/29 8:12am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
- Date Edited:
1/29 8:15am (1 edits total)
Edited By:
TheMuffin
|
|
Well. That was certainly informative. And certainly put me in my place when it comes to knowledge on that sort of stuff. I'll have to wait for Corbin to answer my question before making a final decision.
-----signature-----
I am currently taking custom lightsaber orders.
Keep it simple and contact me for details.
|
|
|
Quote Reply |
Active Topic Notification |
Private Message |
Post History
|
acerocket
Registered:
Jan '06
|
Date Posted:
1/29 9:10am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
|
Well I certainly didn't mean to insult your intelligence. I looked into the 'kitchen' method when I first wanted to do some anodizing and the results were very, very poor. Spotty finish, weak coloring, some places with no anodizing at all, and just poor finish overall. I just wanted to save you the trouble of finding this out on your own dime (or many dimes). Mistakes can get expensive and I just wanted to save you the headaches. Now, I have seen some 'kitchen' anodizing that looks good, but it does not hold a candle to a properly done job with the right equipment. There's a reason why anodizers (and all platers for that matter) charge so much - they can do it right the first time (well usually  ).
As far as moly coating Corbin will have to answer on what colors he will offer, but I know it comes in a few colors. Mostly blacks, greys, OD green, tans/browns, off-white, and a stainless steel. Since it is primarily used on firarms, i don't think you will find bright colors.
|
|
|
Quote Reply |
Active Topic Notification |
Private Message |
Post History
|
TheMuffin
Registered:
Nov '05
|
Date Posted:
1/29 9:54am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
|
Actually I'm glad you put me in my place. I had no reason to really look into how to do it myself as I had just read up very quickly on it. So you saved me from making an ass of myself in real life.
And black will be fine for right now, but I might want to do some other more vibrant colors in the future. So yeah I guess I'll just wait in my cube here at work until Corbin stops by.
-----signature-----
I am currently taking custom lightsaber orders.
Keep it simple and contact me for details.
|
|
|
Quote Reply |
Active Topic Notification |
Private Message |
Post History
|
GreytaleNovastar1138
Registered:
Dec '05
|
Date Posted:
1/30 1:37am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
|
Ah, welcome back Corbin! Glad the move went well... and cool, the coating stuff sounds great.
Ace, thanks again for the help you gave me earlier... that particular event is going to be happening in February! I'll have to send something cool your way as tribute, heheh...
-----signature-----
|
|
|
Quote Reply |
Active Topic Notification |
Private Message |
Post History
|
Corbin-Das
Registered:
Nov '05
|
Date Posted:
2/1 8:28pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
- Date Edited:
2/1 8:30pm (1 edits total)
Edited By:
Corbin-Das
|
Hi guys.
Muffin, the stuff I'm doing is available in several different colors, though I'm not sure how many different ones I'll be doing to start off with. Some of the more unique colors are:
SILVER
WHITE
RED
ORANGE
ROYAL BLUE
YELLOW
FOLIAGE GREEN
TITANIUM GRAY
BRIGHT BRASS
ANTIQUE BRASS
Of course, there's "regular" gun colors too: black, tan, brown, a few OD greens, dark and light gray and a brushed stainless steel look. The different colors can be applied overtop of each other too (think camo). The different colors can be mixed to get custom colors as well (red+blue = purple). I'm not sure if/when I'll start doing custom camo jobs, but we'll see. It may be more labor intensive than I'd be willing to do while keeping prices down.
Corbin
-----signature-----
http://www.CorbinDas.com GAS IT UP! 1. (Expletive)-Commit to overcoming obstacles and persevere in the face of struggle. 2. (Verb phrase)-To take your actions and outlook beyond normal limits. 3. A phrase often said by Corbin Das
|
|
|
Quote Reply |
Active Topic Notification |
Private Message |
Post History
|
GreytaleNovastar1138
Registered:
Dec '05
|
Date Posted:
2/15 6:56pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
|
Saber Makers Choreo Competition... The S.M.A.C.C. D.O.W.N.S.!!
Saber Makers Annual Choreography Competition...
Dueling ONLY With NON-rotoscoped Sabers
...hopefully the idea will be solidified more as the months progress. Keep your eyes open for more, and feel free to post suggestions about having this kind of competition!
http://youtube.com/watch?v=LyxlEEyqw-M
-----signature-----
|
|
|
Quote Reply |
Active Topic Notification |
Private Message |
Post History
|
TheMuffin
Registered:
Nov '05
|
Date Posted:
2/15 7:31pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
|
|
Now that would be cool. If only I could build a second one.
-----signature-----
I am currently taking custom lightsaber orders.
Keep it simple and contact me for details.
|
|
|
Quote Reply |
Active Topic Notification |
Private Message |
Post History
|
Corbin-Das
Registered:
Nov '05
|
Date Posted:
2/15 8:54pm
Subject:
SMACC DOWN!!
- Date Edited:
2/15 8:55pm (1 edits total)
Edited By:
Corbin-Das
|
Time to lay down the SMACC DOWNS!!!! 
I really like this idea. It helps bring together people from the saber community, it let's folks enjoy themselves, it showcases lighted saber choreography and without promoting one type over another (you can use Luxeon, EL, FX, Hyperdyne, etc) and lastly, it gives exposure to the general public and hopefully will bring new people in. I'd say it has all the earmarks of an event that should provide nothing but good times and comradery.
Who knows, some more exposure like this and we might end up with a new "extreme sport". 
Unfortunately, I'm not very good at choreography. Actual dueling is more my thing. That's cool though. I can always learn. LOL. After having met with Quinn, Novastar and several others at C4 to discuss what we'd like to see happen within the saber community, I'm confident that choreography like this, and the continuing work of groups like NY Jedi and LA Jedi will continue to gain us more exposure and bring more people into this fun world of sabers.
On a similar note:
This Spring I'll be converting the back couple acres of my property into a park/workout/dueling area that hopefully will allow some local folks to come out and enjoy themselves with stuff like this. I already have a 40 foot "arena" that's perfect for dueling. It's actually a wooden round pen for running a horse, but with 7-8 foot tall sides, a door that closes and blends into the rest of the wall and a viewing stand overlooking the area below, it has "fighting pit" written all over it. We're going to be selling our horse in the next few months anyway, so the round pen will not be used for anything else.
Corbin
-----signature-----
http://www.CorbinDas.com GAS IT UP! 1. (Expletive)-Commit to overcoming obstacles and persevere in the face of struggle. 2. (Verb phrase)-To take your actions and outlook beyond normal limits. 3. A phrase often said by Corbin Das
|
|
|
Quote Reply |
Active Topic Notification |
Private Message |
Post History
|
GreytaleNovastar1138
Registered:
Dec '05
|
Date Posted:
2/16 3:40pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
|
Hey, the fighting pit idea sounds great... maybe it's the "dueler's dugout"? 
Glad you liked my fun acronym regarding the S.M.A.C.C.--I've been entertaining the idea for several months now, but came up with the name in thirty seconds when I was finalizing things a few days ago. I don't know WHY it came so easily, but... it did.
For the record, I've been teaching saber fencing and "actually" fencing much much longer than I've really done any serious staged combat. In my experience and study, it is the true martial artists that do the "best" staged combat. Don't just take my opinion... look at Bruce Lee, Jet Li, Jackie Chan, Benny the Jet, Sammo, Chow Yun Fat, Michelle Yeoh, and the list goes on. Oh gee, did I forget someone important--I think so. Yuen Wo Ping.  Seriously, now THAT guy {triple equals sign} God.
One great example of a nice lesson on the "progression" of basic martial art in a movie--is Return of The Dragon, mainly focusing on the scene where Bruce Lee and Chuck Norris pair up and fight it out. I cannot explain it all here naturally, but if a viewer KNOWS anything about martial art... you'll see a progression from direct attack to a block/parry & riposte to a feint attack to a counter-attack, etc. etc. It's truly a BRILLIANT example of where Bruce Lee's genius in both presenting martial art to the viewer in an exciting fashion... AND keeping as best to "somewhat relative" to real-world actions (and not just "movie-fu")... was really above and beyond. I have full confidence that Lee and Norris must have worked very well together to create that scene.
Anyhow. Sorry to blither on, but... yeah... choreography (in my thinking) goes far beyond just making moves up... there are so many considerations, it can be mind-boggling. Style, period, weaponry, character, story, tempo, mood, etc. I mean, is it a "contest" in the story or a fight to the death? Are the characters "super-heroes" or totally mortal just as you or I? Uber-trained or just run-of-the-mill? Is there something they'd NEVER do? Or is there nothing that they WOULDn't do?
Well... enough de-railing the LED thread. I only hope we really DO build a good strong community out of this idea... and we don't simply have 1000s of people with sabers sitting in their closets that only come out at events, or for five minutes when friend X or Y is visiting...
-----signature-----
|
|
|
Quote Reply |
Active Topic Notification |
Private Message |
Post History
|
Greybaine
Registered:
Dec '07
|
Date Posted:
2/20 11:38pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
|
I've been looking at seoul z-power p4's. They seem to have a really high lumen output for pretty cheap, are they any good? Anyways, that's not my real question...... WHAT THE HECK DOES U-BIN AND T-BIN MEAN?!?!?!? GRRRRRRRR..... 
Thanx for all the help.
-----signature-----
It puts the lotion on it's skin, or it gets the hose again.
|
|
|
Quote Reply |
Active Topic Notification |
Private Message |
Post History
|
GreytaleNovastar1138
Registered:
Dec '05
|
Date Posted:
2/21 6:55am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
|
In the case of bin code letters such as "T" or "U" for the Luxeon series, they often refer to differing max cont. current and lumens ratings. Sometimes, the "T" will show up in different colors... sometimes it won't.
In general--you can ignore the part #s unless the specifications aren't listed when you buy. Just look for the "correct" current you want, and the lumens rating that suits you best. Most people lean toward the "highest" lumens rating in any given color... which usually have a higher current draw as well.
-----signature-----
|
|
|
Quote Reply |
Active Topic Notification |
Private Message |
Post History
|
acerocket
Registered:
Jan '06
|
Date Posted:
2/21 4:49pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
|
|
In the case of the Seoul P4 LED, the U and T bin codes refer to the luminous flux. T being 80 lumens (typical) and U being 100 lumens (typical) when run at 350 mA.
|
|
|
Quote Reply |
Active Topic Notification |
Private Message |
Post History
|
Greybaine
Registered:
Dec '07
|
Date Posted:
2/28 12:21am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
- Date Edited:
2/28 12:23am (1 edits total)
Edited By:
Greybaine
|
Thanx for the info. I found a pretty good deal on the u-bin's w/stars. I'm hoping to get them and use gells or color disks to get the colors I need. Hopefully the transmission ratings on the gells are right so that the color that passes through wont get to washed out. Am I correct in assuming that 200lm passing through 36% transmission would be about equal to 72lm?
S.M.A.C.C. sounds awesome. I really hope it takes off.
-----signature-----
It puts the lotion on it's skin, or it gets the hose again.
|
|
|
Quote Reply |
Active Topic Notification |
Private Message |
Post History
|
GreytaleNovastar1138
Registered:
Dec '05
|
Date Posted:
2/28 4:28am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
|
If you're talking about using some kind of light filter with the white, the best test is a visual one with your own eyes. Especially when you take into consideration the many ways you could go about filtering the light. Some people use a little "disc" that goes just above the LED. Others might try a diffuser film or tube/whatever that is already colored somewhat and acts as a filter. The type of diffusion you use (i.e. Corbin's film style, Ultra/Gelu/"gift wrap" style, TCSS style, etc. etc.) will also play into the game... along with blade length and if you are using a mirrored tip.
I do not have a lot of experience with filtering, and the reason for that is... what little I *DID* try with filters... sucked pretty badly, so I abandoned the idea. Then again, that was back in 2006 trying to get a "magenta-ish" blade out of a white Lux III with Corbin's film on a "shorter" 30 inch blade or so with a mirrored tip. I also tried playing around with blue + a filter... then red... neither worked very well, as the transference of light looked like arse.
But... trying this with the proverbial 200lm might just work ok! Ya never know! I might point you to look at this gent's work...
http://youtube.com/watch?v=OHTcL2RPeRQ
It's an RGB... not the brightest... but... looks decent to me! Obi-Dar did a very nice job.
-----signature-----
|
|
|
Quote Reply |
Active Topic Notification |
Private Message |
Post History
|
