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Topic:
LED Blade Q and A's
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GreytaleNovastar1138
Registered:
Dec '05
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Date Posted:
7/19 5:59pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Sorry for the double post, but...
for those who do not have a throng of expertise with wiring, LEDs, batteries, etc. ... or even for those who do, but aren't getting much access to many sound drivers or light driver cards:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=sn9qlwvtIGk
Hopefully this will at least give you some good places to start with things.
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Evil-Henchman
Registered:
Jul '04
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Date Posted:
8/1 10:42pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
- Date Edited:
8/1 10:45pm (2 edits total)
Edited By:
Evil-Henchman
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I made 2 more hilts and lit 'em up using Luxeon III LEDs.
I did not make the hilt that has the blue blade in it but I did modify it to take the blade and electronics.
The green saber was (in part) inspired by some left over parts that my predecessor, Rob Martinelli, made. The on/off switch on the green-bladed saber is hidden. You actually have to push in on the green gem on the bottom of the hilt to turn it off/on.
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"Why are there no lumberjacks in the city?"
"Ninja kick the damn rabbit!"
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GreytaleNovastar1138
Registered:
Dec '05
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Date Posted:
8/4 12:12am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Nice work, Evil! Those hilts all look pretty sleek and stellar... 
As a matter of note, for those interested in wiring up Crystal Focus LED sabers... whether you are planning to get a board, already have one that is waiting to be wired up, or whatever... here are some links to a Crystal Focus Detailed Video Wiring Guide.
* Four parts, each about ten minutes each
* All solders and actions shown
* Recharge port covered
* Kill pin shown
* Li-Ion "extra": wiring up a PCB for Li-Ions
* Motor "extra": short clip showing a vibration motor
For those who need a "newbie" wiring guide--it's there!
PART I: http://youtube.com/watch?v=KR9r_lGYGoQ
PART II: http://youtube.com/watch?v=6uRWrjMpxD8
PART III: http://youtube.com/watch?v=2h3buByUBV8
PART IV: http://youtube.com/watch?v=DNcc2oZWmO8
Special thanks to Gundamaniac on TCSS for making the video a success by doing the wiring with his CF board while I did the camera work!
If you don't have a Crystal Focus board... never fear... keep your eyes open here in August and September!
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TheMuffin
Registered:
Nov '05
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Date Posted:
8/4 7:37am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Lord knows I needed something like that. I've finally come to the conclusion that TCSS modular hilt system just doesn't work for what I need to do with my saber. That and I've also realized that I need to wire up a recharge port. Having a removable battery really hampers how I wire this stuff up.
On another note, anyone figured out or have a tutorial on disassembling the MR DIY lightsaber?
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GreytaleNovastar1138
Registered:
Dec '05
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Date Posted:
8/4 5:15pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Well, I hope it helps you out Muffin...
As to the 616 MR (Joe Jedi/DIY):
http://youtube.com/watch?v=vV_9bTS0zlk
Grayven, aka Robodragn on Y-tube has posted a VERY in-depth tutorial, complete with almost every possible thing you could imagine! Grayven is AWESOME with this, and although sure it's like nine videos... it covers EVERYTHING. His soldering and planning are both extremely extremely well-done, and you couldn't ask for much more regarding how he comments through everything.
Good luck...
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Raph1613
Title: Co-Founder Spokane Fan Force
Registered:
Jan '04
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Date Posted:
9/1 9:17pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Hi everybody!
My saber exploits have been as successful as my luck will allow. The hilt/s look awesome, though still a little underpowerred.
Anyway, I have an electronics question:
Does anyone have (or know where to find) schematics for a momentary on/off circuit? Nothing fancy. Just press once to activate, press again to deactivate. I have a ton of momentary switches, but no way of locking them on that costs less than $50 a pop.
You guys have been one of the best resources ever, so thank you in advance.
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Caught at a crossroads....
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Too clumsy to be a Sith....
The Force, though with me, is quite erratic....
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GreytaleNovastar1138
Registered:
Dec '05
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Date Posted:
9/1 10:09pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Hi Ralph... you're probably better off just "caving in" and buying a bunch of latching switches. It won't cost you maybe $1 to $5 to buy 4 or so if you go through some online electronics store. Radio Shack has a very high mark up, but... again--only a few bucks.
Otherwise, the momentaries are mainly going to be helpful for driver boards that "look" for that sort of electronic circuit.
As you might know, latching switches quite literally cut the line altogether, so they are very useful. Further, they can ACTUALLY be used on driver boards that "require" momentary setups... by using a "double-click" type of action, or sometimes just a super light "touch" to a pushbutton latching. But... it's not ideal.
The only other solution would be to find some kind of "lock down" mechanism that allows you to lock the switch firmly into place and then release it later to shut it off. Also not ideal. 
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Raph1613
Title: Co-Founder Spokane Fan Force
Registered:
Jan '04
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Date Posted:
9/1 10:44pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Everything you said is true, but unfortunately, locking swithes have a nasty habit of being bulkier than I want to deal with. The momentary switches that I have are the "micro" type that can go into almost anything. And I've coutersunk the one that I tied in with a "Corbin" driver and it is literally the best thing that I've ever dealt with. Tragicly, it's the only thing that's worked out perfectly on that damned saber.
And I'm looking to build more sabers.
I did find one style of slider that "could" work, but it has two flaws:
1. It can't be countersunk properly so if I do anything with the saber, there's a good chance that I'll accidentally turn it off again.
2. Vibration from using the saber can cause the slider switch to "bump" into the off position.
I've been digging through my old electronics manuals to find a transistorized circuit that I can build, but I'm so far out of practice, that could take months to find. I don't remember all the terminology.
Now, just off of my memory, I could build a very OLD-school circuit that does what I want, but it requires a relay, which will suck up the power really fast. And is prone to vibration.
(I wasn't kidding when I said that I'm out of practice)
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Caught at a crossroads....
Not noble enough to be a Jedi....
Too clumsy to be a Sith....
The Force, though with me, is quite erratic....
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GreytaleNovastar1138
Registered:
Dec '05
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Date Posted:
9/4 6:35pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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I've never encountered a single latching switch that shut off due to vibration. Usually... the user just accidentally flips it. Additionally, I don't know of any relays that are not able to handle the shock/vibration of saber combat.
You might want to look at my videos and many of the sabers I've made. The "Balance of Power" productions required recessed switches that were not easy to accidentally trip... yet available at a moment's notice if the user NEEDED to power on/off. Almost all of my sabers use latching switches.
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Corbin-Das
Registered:
Nov '05
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Date Posted:
9/9 12:40am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
- Date Edited:
9/9 12:41am (1 edits total)
Edited By:
Corbin-Das
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Hey Raph,
Try these......
link
They're what I've been using for years. In fact, the Killer Penny saber has two in it. They're available in latching or momentary and are DPDT, meaning you can control two separate circuits with them. They even make ones that can control FOUR separate circuits.
I hope this helped
Corbin Das
P.S. I'm glad you liked the driver.
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http://www.CorbinDas.com GAS IT UP! 1. (Expletive)-Commit to overcoming obstacles and persevere in the face of struggle. 2. (Verb phrase)-To take your actions and outlook beyond normal limits. 3. A phrase often said by Corbin Das
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Evil-Henchman
Registered:
Jul '04
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Date Posted:
9/9 2:52am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Hi Corbin. Hey, I forgot to mention that I used the Red and Blue Luxeon LEDs that you sent me last year in the sabers that are in the pics in my previous post in this thread (which is just a few posts up).
In case you're wondering who I am, I'm the guy who bought RLSA Sabers from Rob. Thanks again for the LEDs.
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"Warned you we tried. Listen you did not. Now screwed we all will be."
"Why are there no lumberjacks in the city?"
"Ninja kick the damn rabbit!"
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Corbin-Das
Registered:
Nov '05
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Date Posted:
9/12 11:10am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Hi E.H.
Small World, huh?  I really like the green saber. The emitter/nech area especially. It's cool that you're continuing on where Rob left off. Keep up the great work.
Corbin
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http://www.CorbinDas.com GAS IT UP! 1. (Expletive)-Commit to overcoming obstacles and persevere in the face of struggle. 2. (Verb phrase)-To take your actions and outlook beyond normal limits. 3. A phrase often said by Corbin Das
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Raph1613
Title: Co-Founder Spokane Fan Force
Registered:
Jan '04
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Date Posted:
9/14 11:55pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Corbin-Das posted:
I'm glad you liked the driver.
The ramp-up effect is AWESOME!!! Absolutely love it.
Say, how many repeated uses before it wears out?
Those switches that you recommended will work out if I can't figure out a simple "activate" circuit.
I haven't had the time to dig through any of my books.
I haven't had the time to be here.....
Thanks
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Caught at a crossroads....
Not noble enough to be a Jedi....
Too clumsy to be a Sith....
The Force, though with me, is quite erratic....
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DarthCemeroX
Registered:
Mar '07
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Date Posted:
9/16 4:03pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
- Date Edited:
9/16 4:04pm (1 edits total)
Edited By:
DarthCemeroX
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Alright So I plan on buying components to make my saber. And I'm a huge stickler for the color and brightness of my saber.
I was planning on buying a white LED with colored discs.
How does that compare to buying a colored luxeon blade in terms of color intensity and brightness?
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Stop b!%#^ing , start a revolution "The spectator believes what they see... the artist sees what the believe" http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/justicexxM/DCXcat.jpg
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GreytaleNovastar1138
Registered:
Dec '05
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Date Posted:
9/17 2:47am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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It's been said many ways, Cemero, but...
Colored LED >>>> White LED filtered for (blue, green, red, cyan, etc. etc.)
However--if you cannot get the color you want from an LED directly (i.e. yellow, purple, pink, certain "sky" blues)... filtering is your only option really. In that case, a good standard that won't require an enormous battery solution is the Seoul P4 white LED. There is the P7 as well, but it's a beast, requiring 2.8A of current at the bare minimum!!
Also, "bin codes" will help you to determine the color shade differences from one LED color. For example, there are "many" cyans in the Luxeon III series--some look more greenish-blue while others more sky blue. In general, you cannot control this factor much as... in order to specify the EXACT bin number from an LED you want... you'd have to buy 100s if not 1000s of LEDs from a manufacturer.
Finally, in terms of brightness--that all depends on many factors, namely:
* Are you driving the LED "correctly" and using it to its maximum potential (current)?
* Is the LED being cooled properly (via heatsink)?
* How long is your blade? What diameter? What wall thickness? What diffusion method?
* Are you using 5 degree or 10 degree optics? (nothing > should be used)
There are a few others, but... you get the idea. Brightness is not one factor alone, it is the symbiotic combination of several factors that will lead to an extremely "illuminating" experience...
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