| Author |
Topic:
LED Blade Q and A's
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Corbin-Das
Registered:
Nov '05
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Date Posted:
5/6 4:08pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Hi Henchman
The shimmer has a set range that it will shimmer with, so it won't get too low to look like the thing is shorting out. I'll need to verify with my driver guy if the values are pre-set or if they're random. I want to say random (within a pre-set mA range), but I'm not 100% sure on that.
Corbin
-----signature-----
http://www.CorbinDas.com GAS IT UP! 1. (Expletive)-Commit to overcoming obstacles and persevere in the face of struggle. 2. (Verb phrase)-To take your actions and outlook beyond normal limits. 3. A phrase often said by Corbin Das
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GreytaleNovastar1138
Registered:
Dec '05
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Date Posted:
5/6 11:43pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Updates for my upcoming Sound CD:
* New, alternate hum mixture & lockup that is more "screen accurate" for Episode II. So... now there are TWO versions of EP II.
* SW Episode V and Episode VI fonts being added... I took these sounds directly from the movies and worked them in a way so that music and foley sounds are not present, so... they're about as screen accurate as you'll hear (to a point). They have SOME of "my own" flair added, but... not much!
* SW Electro Staff being added...
* "Magic Saber" font almost complete
* A bunch of video tutorials on mixing your OWN sounds (using Goldwave), and also a tutorial on how to correctly copy files over to your SD card without causing problems.
* Bonus sound library is getting RIDICULOUS, and that is a GOOD thing! It means a wonderous variety of sounds for people to work from and with... and in combination with the tutorials... ANYONE will be able to try their hand at soundmaking for CF!
List of fonts that will 100% for certain DEFINITELY be on the CD:
(and this means "new" versions in some cases!)
...in alphabetical order:
* Ancient Saber
* Blackstar
* Chainsaw!
* Elemental: H2O
* Indiana Jones Whip
* Kung Fu Fightin'!
* Elemental: Magic
* Nano Deus Tachi
* NecroVolt Staff
* Novastar
* Phoenix Pyre (also doubles as "Elemental: Fire" in a way!)
* Satori 'Zen' Saber (inspired by Jonitus' request for sound)
* Steel Sword
* SW Electro Staff
* SW Episode I -- (extremely screen accurate)
* SW Episode II -- (two versions now! newest more screen acc.)
* SW Episode IV -- (now with more lockup sounds to select!)
* SW Episode V -- (extremely screen accurate)
* SW Episode VI -- (extremely screen accurate)
THAT'S NINETEEN FONTS!!
I'll shoot for at least 20 though... heheh
List of fonts that are currently being jerks to me and not going as I'd hoped:
* Video Game Font -- (it's harder to choose what sounds to use than I thought)
* Elemental: Earth -- (it's coming along, but... I'm having trouble with selecting some sounds)
* That's it!
Ok... back to work I go...
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Greybaine
Registered:
Dec '07
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Date Posted:
5/7 2:37pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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I have another new question. Has anyone checked out the p7's? They push out a god aweful amount of light. The only thing is.... I can't find a colminating lens for it. Will a cone reflector work just as well?
-----signature-----
It puts the lotion on it's skin, or it gets the hose again.
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Evil-Henchman
Registered:
Jul '04
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Date Posted:
5/8 2:27am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
- Date Edited:
5/8 2:54am (3 edits total)
Edited By:
Evil-Henchman
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Hi all, below are some pics of my latest creation.
It's my first attempt at a double-bladed hilt as well as my first attempt doing brass inlay work. It's also my first attempt at wiring up and installing Luxeon LEDs (the LED holder that I posted earlier in this thread was never used by me to hold a wired up LED).
I made the 2 handle pieces and one of the emitters last year but let it sit for awhile so that I could work on some single-bladed hilts. The flush mounted screws in the center of the hilt are just for looks as the 2 main handle pieces are permanately attached via JB weld to a hollowed out center piece. I used two Luxeon III red/orange LEDs and two revamped versions of my LED holder.
I learned a lot of what not to do while making this hilt and it was a major pain at times. As such, it may be a long time before I make another double-bladed hilt. It's not as pretty as what other saber makers can do but I'm still learning and hope to improve.
-----signature-----
"Warned you we tried. Listen you did not. Now screwed we all will be."
"Why are there no lumberjacks in the city?"
"Ninja kick the damn rabbit!"
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Corbin-Das
Registered:
Nov '05
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Date Posted:
5/8 11:49am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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I like the brass inlays Henchman. Good job. 
Novastar, that's a whole lot of fonts. Pretty cool stuff. I'm thinking of some type of steampunk/cyberpunk saber and was trying to think what something like that might sound like. I might end up using that "killer bee" sound as a base. We'll see.
For those that don't know what I'm talking about, I have a recording of a swarm of African killer bees that's digitally altered to sound almost like a sparky sort of plasma discharge. It's hard to explain, but I like it. I had originally thought of having the font used in the Killer Penny saber. I suppose if I got one together, I still might.
Corbin
-----signature-----
http://www.CorbinDas.com GAS IT UP! 1. (Expletive)-Commit to overcoming obstacles and persevere in the face of struggle. 2. (Verb phrase)-To take your actions and outlook beyond normal limits. 3. A phrase often said by Corbin Das
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GreytaleNovastar1138
Registered:
Dec '05
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Date Posted:
5/12 10:00am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Henchman... nice work--does it have sound? I thought I saw some speaker holes...
Corbin... well, SOMEone on TCSS has already made SOME kind of "steampunk" font. I'll be the first to admit: I have no idea what a steampunk is, but... that word has been thrown around there enough and the sound font is indeed there somewhere.
Another gent on there made an EXCELLENT font which he calls "Holy Reaver". I think it's pretty nice, and definitely has a unique sound.
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Evil-Henchman
Registered:
Jul '04
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Date Posted:
5/12 12:26pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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GreytaleNovastar1138 posted:
Henchman... nice work--does it have sound? I thought I saw some speaker holes...
Sadly no. I hope to make a saber with sound one of these days though.
-----signature-----
"Warned you we tried. Listen you did not. Now screwed we all will be."
"Why are there no lumberjacks in the city?"
"Ninja kick the damn rabbit!"
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Greybaine
Registered:
Dec '07
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Date Posted:
5/17 10:23am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Has anyone used a ssc p7 before in their saber? If so, how did you mount it and where did you get a culminating lens for it? From reading the specs on it I know it will need more than the average heat sinking. Also being larger than the average led it can't use a common lens. I found a driver for it but it is only a typical flashlight driver with strobe, s.o.s., high, med, low. No clash or other fun stuff. If anybody has any input, I would be more than happy to listen.
-----signature-----
It puts the lotion on it's skin, or it gets the hose again.
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Jedi-Loreen
Title: OCSWS VIP
& Master of the Blades
Registered:
Dec '02
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Date Posted:
5/17 3:12pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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I believe you mean "collimating" lens.
You don't want to terminate the light beam, you want to sort of focus it into a tighter beam so that it doesn't spread out too much as it travels down the blade. 
I'm not sure what kind of LED that is, but not every one has optics that will work with them.
-----signature-----
In order to see the Light, you must sometimes risk the Darkness.
"The Force is my Ally"
Builder of EL Sabre Blades
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Corbin-Das
Registered:
Nov '05
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Date Posted:
5/18 1:37pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
- Date Edited:
5/18 1:44pm (1 edits total)
Edited By:
Corbin-Das
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I've yet to see a good reflector or optics for the SSC P7. This is the closest one, but it's 2" around:
Link
Here's a smaller one that you might be able to modify:
Link 2
Link 3
I hope this helps
On another note, I know some of you have emailed me about my new driver. Here's the specs:
This new saber driver utilizes all the features of the original, only with more power in a smaller package.
Another feature this driver has is a static shimmer that makes the blade look more “alive”.
* Ramp up/down, static shimmer, optional flash on impact and lockup
* Maximum input voltage has been increased to 30V from the previous 12V
* Maximum output voltage has been increased to 25V. Rebel compatible.
* Uses less than 0.2mA when sleeping (turned off, with power to driver)
* Size is reduced by 35%, 0.80 x 1.1 from previous 1.25 x 1.625
* Pulsed Width Modulation averages 1A output with 1.2A when “clashing”
* On board micro on/off switch with contacts for remote switch
Corbin
-----signature-----
http://www.CorbinDas.com GAS IT UP! 1. (Expletive)-Commit to overcoming obstacles and persevere in the face of struggle. 2. (Verb phrase)-To take your actions and outlook beyond normal limits. 3. A phrase often said by Corbin Das
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Raph1613
Title: Co-Founder Spokane Fan Force
Registered:
Jan '04
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Date Posted:
5/20 1:25am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Hi there everyone.
I've been building hilts for a few years now, and recently finished my first working saber.
It's a Luxeon III powerred by a 9-volt battery through a 1000mA "BuckPuck". So far, I'm not impressed with it's brightness, compared with what I've seen in vids that people have posted. Either I don't have enough power, or I wired it wrong. Advice would be appreciated.
MY MAIN QUESTION IS THIS:
Will it compromise the durability of the blade if drill a countersink hole into a 1/8" walled Corbin style battle blade? I've been having a problem with the blade slipping out of the holder while twirling it. And I've wrenched the thumbscrew down as tight as I can every time.
-----signature-----
Caught at a crossroads....
Not noble enough to be a Jedi....
Too clumsy to be a Sith....
The Force, though with me, is quite erratic....
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Evil-Henchman
Registered:
Jul '04
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Date Posted:
5/20 3:48am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Raph1613 posted:
Will it compromise the durability of the blade if drill a countersink hole into a 1/8" walled Corbin style battle blade?
No. That's how I secure my polycarbonate blades. That's how dad did it. That's how America does it... and it's worked out pretty well so far.
-----signature-----
"Warned you we tried. Listen you did not. Now screwed we all will be."
"Why are there no lumberjacks in the city?"
"Ninja kick the damn rabbit!"
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acerocket
Registered:
Jan '06
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Date Posted:
5/20 6:30am
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
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Raph1613 posted:
It's a Luxeon III powerred by a 9-volt battery through a 1000mA "BuckPuck". So far, I'm not impressed with it's brightness, compared with what I've seen in vids that people have posted. Either I don't have enough power, or I wired it wrong. Advice would be appreciated.
First off, never believe what you see in a video or picture. It has been said hundreds of times in this thread that what you see on film is never a true and accurate representation of what you see in person. Camera settings are easy to cheat to make your saber look better than it really is.
Second, on your 9V battery, they only have a mAh rating of around 625mAh (for a Energizer branded 9V - as found on the Energizer website). Since a buck convertor is designed to reduce the current to a constant level, you are not even giving it the full current level so your blade will be dimmer. You need a boostpuck if you want to give your LED 1000mA. Unfortunately, they don't make boostpucks in 1000mA yet. You only choice is to switch to a different style battey or to add a second 9V battery in parallel to get a 1250mA battery pack.
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Corbin-Das
Registered:
Nov '05
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Date Posted:
5/20 12:29pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
- Date Edited:
5/20 12:31pm (1 edits total)
Edited By:
Corbin-Das
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Hi Raph1613
Ace nailed it on the head. 9V batteries don't have enough "oomph" to power something at 1A. Maybe for a few moments, but that's about it. If you can fit it in there, I'd suggest 4 AAs, or even AAAs. I personally like Li-Ion cells, which are 3.6V each instead of the 1.2V that NiMH batteries are.
Obviously, the larger the batteries are, the more run time you should have. My suggestion is to use the largest batteries you can fit into your saber that gets you the voltage you want. Using a Buckpuck, I'd suggest at least 1 volt more than what you need. They can handle up to 32V, if I recall.
No problem drilling into one of my blades for the blade retention screw to sink into. I'd suggest that it not be too close to the lower edge of the blade though, or it might crack. I sometimes will make a divit in the blade for increased retention, though I prefer not to drill all the way through. Either way is fine though.
Corbin
-----signature-----
http://www.CorbinDas.com GAS IT UP! 1. (Expletive)-Commit to overcoming obstacles and persevere in the face of struggle. 2. (Verb phrase)-To take your actions and outlook beyond normal limits. 3. A phrase often said by Corbin Das
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acerocket
Registered:
Jan '06
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Date Posted:
5/20 5:23pm
Subject:
RE: LED Blade Q and A's
- Date Edited:
5/20 5:24pm (2 edits total)
Edited By:
acerocket
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Raph1613, I got to thinking this morning after I replied to your post. I did a search and found these: 9V battery They are a primary (non-rechargeable) 9V lithium battery that has 1200 mAh rating. You could use one of these and get the buck puck to work correctly and provide higher brightness without having to modify your saber too much.
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