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Topic:
Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
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Neimhaille
Registered:
May '02
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Date Posted:
6/6 5:26am
Subject:
RE: Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
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I've been taking patterns as I go too.
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Sotis
Registered:
Aug '05
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Date Posted:
6/6 6:08am
Subject:
RE: Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
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Neimhaille, the skirt horizontal pleats are really good! Were you making the hole skirt from one piece of fabric?
I wonder, how you'll make vertical pleats. Pretty sure, they'll be great, too!
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Neimhaille
Registered:
May '02
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Date Posted:
6/6 3:51pm
Subject:
RE: Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
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Thanks Sotis. No it's a five part skirt as I spotted the side seams in the original and given the amount of drape in the back determined there must be a CB seam as well. The shaping just about did my head in I don't mind admitting it, particularly of the cloak, it's all much less intuitive than it appears. The closing will be a little different than planned but should also help with the draping. 
I'm just debating in my own head as to how to best support and stabilise the skirt drapery panel. I need to decide between a full petticoat, a brief or simply a panel and then adjust it when wearing it. I suspect the full petticoat will in out  I then just need to decide what to make it from. And how short so it can't be seen.
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kay_dee
Title: SFFF VIP
Council Member & Webmaster
Registered:
Jun '02
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Date Posted:
6/15 9:17pm
Subject:
RE: Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
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Neimhaille, your dress is turning out great! I wish I had time to add this to my costume list for real. I fear by the time I have time for it I'll be over 40 years old and it just wouldn't look right on me. *sob*
I will confirm from my visit to FIDM that there is a center back seam to the skirt. This is where it opens up (it looked like a zipper in the center back), and there is a tab that extends up from the waist of the skirt in the center back to connect it to the bodice. (The tab is an extra piece added at the waist line).
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Neimhaille
Registered:
May '02
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Date Posted:
6/17 7:39pm
Subject:
RE: Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
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Excellent I suspect the tab is to hold the skirt up, the sheer weight of the cloak and hood holds the upper part down quite well as it is
I still haven't decided on the lining aspect of the skirt. I'm going to look for more clues before deciding. My fabric definitely needs something. Well it's not so much an issue with the fabric but since there is so much in the upper piece (double layered hood and cloak) the skirt looks a little skimpy as one layer.
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kay_dee
Title: SFFF VIP
Council Member & Webmaster
Registered:
Jun '02
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Date Posted:
6/18 12:25am
Subject:
RE: Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
- Date Edited:
6/18 12:28am (1 edits total)
Edited By:
kay_dee
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Yeah, the skirt at FIDM didn't have a lining that I noticed. But that fabric was not as thin all the silk knits I've found. It seemed closer in texture and weight to the polyester knit used on my ANH Leia dress (I didn't use jet set, I used something a tad heavier and a different weave). And we know that one of the Tatooine Ep II dresses was a synthetic from Dressing a Galaxy.
Anyway, I agree with adding lining if the knit you have isn't quite thick enough on its own. I suspect if I use the rayon knit I bought for this gown (If I ever make it) it will need lining too... it's just too thin on it's own.
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Neimhaille
Registered:
May '02
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Date Posted:
7/9 7:55pm
Subject:
RE: Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
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I have put off overdyeing my new piping (for the hood as I have already sewn the cape sleeve piping) as I couldn't recall the proportions of colour. I just got a colour I'm really happy with so I thought I would share it.
1 part Pthalo Green (it's a cool blue toned dark green)
2 parts Lemon Yellow
4-5 parts black
All this is acrylic paint and using a paintbrush it's mixed to a paste with some warm water then more water is added and more until a thin milk like dye bath is formed. I probably used about 2/3 cup of warm water and about 1t of black paint it that gives you an idea of how much dye is made.
I poured the liquid into another container and back again to remove all the unmixed paint.
I wet the piping in water from the tap, squeezed the excess water out then swirled the piping in the liquid. Then pulled the piping out, squeezed the excess liquid out and rinced under water. This was too pale so I put the piping in again swirled it around and then squeezed out the excess. This is close to the oclour you will wind up with when it is dry and this colour is a warm slightly muddy grey as per the exhibition photos.
In normal lighting it is probably a more silvery grey so I would start with one part yellow see how it goes then blend in the extra yellow to the dye bath and repeat the process.
I also used optic white piping (polyester) which is why I needed so much yellow, it wound up almost purple without the yellow, even with the green it still tended towards the optic blue tones.
So now I'm breaking out the overlocker again to see what I can work on while the piping is drying.
Oh I haven't yet tried but I suspect the other method used to dye wigs (acrylic *ink* and isopropyl alcohol) would also work for this.
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Neimhaille
Registered:
May '02
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Date Posted:
7/10 4:18am
Subject:
RE: Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
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My piping dried and it's been sewn into the hood now I really really recommend anyone making this to do the piping around the neckline as well as edge of the hood. It's annoying but it just looks so very pretty.
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Neimhaille
Registered:
May '02
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Date Posted:
7/11 2:02am
Subject:
RE: Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
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I also pressed and did a little more tweaking of the hood:
 
As I really am focussed on getting the patterns right in my costuming (fit and correct patterning are my main focal points) I was a little worried how the shaping of the hood would go. Once I had a gathering thread in place and started easing the fabric at the front of the neck and gathering at the back the right tension and direction of stresses started to show and the piping has just finished that off nicely. I am not sure if I'm cheating or if it is the way it was made but I gathered the hood to the piping so that it is completely separate rather than both layers to one side and then the other side of the piping sewn into the body structure. I will have to tack it in place but that is easy enough. I can also ease the neckline into place this way as well.
I seem to have misplaced my black seed beads so I'll have to do a hunt for them. I have some nice silver metal thread that will be used to sew them in place to the hood and skirt front as it has been suggested to do. The original is sewn with black thread as it doesn't show up on film (in the folds of the skirt) but the round beads are silver lined and in real life the black thread looks a bit out of place.
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kay_dee
Title: SFFF VIP
Council Member & Webmaster
Registered:
Jun '02
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Date Posted:
7/12 6:05am
Subject:
RE: Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
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It looks great! I'm jealous
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Neimhaille
Registered:
May '02
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Date Posted:
7/13 4:31am
Subject:
RE: Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
- Date Edited:
7/13 5:07am (1 edits total)
Edited By:
Neimhaille
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Thank you I had a look at the other stores that carried this fabric and there is none left  I was going to buy a bolt and pass on my good fortune. Still it's just a good substitute not the actual fabric anyway
Today I got the beads sewn to the tip of the hood. They are so pretty. And they click and clatter and make a bit of noise
Edited to add image:
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Polly_Padme
Registered:
Jun '08
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Date Posted:
7/22 5:09am
Subject:
RE: Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
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It's look very-very nice!Good work!) 
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HeatherD
Registered:
Feb '05
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Date Posted:
7/30 3:13pm
Subject:
RE: Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
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Where did you get your coin beads and what size are they?
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Neimhaille
Registered:
May '02
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Date Posted:
8/1 4:13am
Subject:
RE: Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
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Thanks Polly-Padme
I got the beads from a local fabric/manchester chain here called Spotlight. I think they may be 8mm.
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Neimhaille
Registered:
May '02
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Date Posted:
8/7 7:08pm
Subject:
RE: Padme light blue Tatooine dress/cape
- Date Edited:
8/7 7:09pm (1 edits total)
Edited By:
Neimhaille
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kay_dee posted:
Yeah, the skirt at FIDM didn't have a lining that I noticed.
Kay Dee I think you actually captured proof of a lining Aside from the way the fabric hugs over the hips (there are stress lines counter to the folds of the draping over the hips) I spotted something in the last photos of the 1st and 3rd rows here that you took:
http://www.padawansguide.com/cape_exhibit.shtml
At the very far curve towards her back you can see a fold right at the top edge, I suspect that is actually a seam for a facing and lining.
Also looking further down to the top of her thigh there are a few horizontal folds created by an inner layer pushing out. It seems to stop about mini skirt length;)
Also the first photo in the Movie Stills section here shows something interesting (Padme stepping up at the entrance and looking to our right):
http://www.padawansguide.com/cape_gallery.shtml
Below the ruched section the two side panels are pulled together as if caught by something underneath. This could just be a panel to help stabilise the ruching but combined with the line down the side of the hip that is definitely caused by something underneath It is not a seam or it would show in the peaks of the folds and down to the hem) I do think there is a fitted support used to keep all the drapery in place. It looks quite solid so I'm going to have to rethink what I am going to use for it!
Oh yes and your photos show I have too much fabric in the underpart of my cloak sleeves;) The seams are cut on an angle mine are just the selvages of the semi circle I cut
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