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Topic:
Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
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Benae_Quee
Title: FanForce CR, New York City, NY
Registered:
Nov '02
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Date Posted:
5/1/07 3:43pm
Subject:
RE: Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
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I also self lined mine with the Jet-Set poly. It's not too hot and not heavy at all, quite comfy in fact.
http://imageevent.com/benaequee/costumes/completed/anhleia
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 ObiWill and BenaeQuee Happily Married Geeks since May 28, 2006 - My Etsy Shop - http://www.BenaeQuee.etsy.com
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lucialeria
Registered:
Dec '05
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Date Posted:
5/7/07 7:30am
Subject:
RE: Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
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<<I always line the dresses I make - especially the ones using the jet set. The dress on display at the SW exhibits is lined too, so it is the movie accurate way to go as well.>>
I don't want to spark any debates with this question but... is "lining" the same thing as one dress pattern with two layers?
The exhibit dress (skirt at least!) is lined, but this dress is the one from the end of Empire Strikes Back. I think the dress from ANH was simply one dress pattern with two layers of fabric on top of each other identical. Someday soon I'll discourse insights (of my seamster boyfriend) on hidden seams...
I got some great hi-res shots up the skirt and of the boots which I took lying on my back - in full pregnant tan Padme no less - I took at the museum about a week ago. I'll post them on my photobucket soon. On the museum dress I think the under layer is a different fabric than the outside poly. BUT on the ANH dress I believe the two fabrics were the same... and it wasn't poly IMHO. Clues to what I THINK it was can now be found in the undies department of your local Walmart stores and in white no less with percentages printed on labels, AND...
also visited Fabric district while in LA and down the street from Michael Levine's in a store going out of business underneath a filthy plastic wrap I scored about 40 yards of 60" white fabric of this exact kind. Don't know why I bought it, but I got a great price on the whole bolt. I know I've been reticent discussing fabric specifics before but after C4 - probably during - I intend to share all. Marie (is she on these boards?!) can attest that in person my passion for talking about just the dress FABRIC can test the saintliness of natures. And for good measure I have to point out again that my observation is NOT original and HAS been posted already on this board a long time ago...
So Kathy...
I've misplaced the place where there was a discussion on the White Leia photo op at C4, please repost or message! Was it a forum? Had INSPIRED suggestion from Shawn on when to schedule it... what do you think about coordinating this shoot with R2 builders club photo op? Then lots of Leias could be photographed with LOTS of R2s!!! I've been searching everywhere for the time for THAT shoot, but so far no luck. But I'll find it! If not, I'll email someone to find out.
Let me know what you think,
Alli
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kay_dee
Title: SFFF VIP
Council Member & Webmaster
Registered:
Jun '02
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Date Posted:
5/7/07 12:52pm
Subject:
RE: Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
- Date Edited:
5/7/07 1:02pm (2 edits total)
Edited By:
kay_dee
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lucialeria posted:
I don't want to spark any debates with this question but... is "lining" the same thing as one dress pattern with two layers?
The exhibit dress (skirt at least!) is lined, but this dress is the one from the end of Empire Strikes Back. I think the dress from ANH was simply one dress pattern with two layers of fabric on top of each other identical. Someday soon I'll discourse insights (of my seamster boyfriend) on hidden seams...
Yes, a lining can be the same exact pattern as the outer layer of a garment. This is how the costume on display at the exhibit was done. Sometimes it's just slightly shorter or what have you, since linings can be installed any number of ways  So, what you have described above for ANH and Empire are pretty much identical processes.
Hehe - I totally love your obsession with the fabric on this dress Alli! So, once again I hope you don't mind if we disagree I really strongly believe that the lining on the Museum dress is made of the same fabric the outer dress is made of. The weave and texture is identical. Check my photos below. The sleeve is the best place to see the identical nature of the lining fabric actually.
I have tons of high res photos I just now remembered to start combing through to upload to image event!
Princess Leia - WSMI Exhibit Photos I'll be uploading more photos of Leia and other costumes eventually, this was just my first batch of Leia that I'd worked through.
Notably, I got a great shot of the way the hem is constructed. You have to look closely at the stitching in this Hi Res Image. When the lining layer (which is the same fabric as the outer layer) was slipped into the dress and sewn in, they finished it off by sewing a long running stitch all the way around the bottom of the hem area to keep the 2 layers aligned at the bottom and make them behave as one piece BEFORE folding the hem under (kind of like what you do when you flatline fabric). The running stitch is kind of a yellowy cream color and easy to see. Those 2 layers were then treated as one and folded under like a traditional hem would be done on a single layer of fabric, and blind hem stitched. The blind hem stitch is done in fine white thread just above that yellow running stitch. I suspect the blind hem stitch just goes through the inner lining layer so it doesn't pull our show through the outer layer at all.
So essentially, it isn't a free hanging lining, and it isn't a bag-lined type of hem either!
Low Res
I also got a great shot of the 3 hooks and eyes I discovered on Preview night at the exhibit.
Low Res
Finally, I also got a shot of the seam on the turtle neck. I had always wondered if the turtle neck was comprised of 2 pieces joined by a seam at the top, or if it was one piece folded over at the top. Now I know!
Low Res
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Kay Dee's Costumes: http://kay-dee.net/costume The San Francisco Fan Force: http://www.sffanforce.com Rebel Legion - Endor Base: http://www.endorbase.org
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SWCostumer
Registered:
Jan '05
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Date Posted:
5/8/07 1:32pm
Subject:
RE: Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
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Alli, I also get a kick out of your obsession with the fabric for this dress. I still believe that the ANH screen dress was made from Qiana. This was a trademarked man-made fiber in the nylon family manufactured by duPont. I still have some costumes pieces made with Qiana.
If anyone who has never handled Qiana would want to see some, I will bring along my harem pants that I made using this fabric.
Nancy
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lucialeria
Registered:
Dec '05
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Date Posted:
5/8/07 4:10pm
Subject:
RE: Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
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just finished posting pics from floor, literally up leia's dress at:
http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h224/Lucialeria/CSC%20-%20Up%20Leias%20Dress/
Check out photos 2071 and 2072 also P4190037
I totally get and feel strongly that both dresses were now dual layered. So what's this OTHER layer? The mannequin is human formed and wouldn't need assistance to fill out the costume. And it wouldn't get cold... so what is this third? layer of what looks like a warmer and very different fabric?
Also got great shots of belt medallions and their rivet attachments. And I've got a theory on origins of this belt... so here goes. I think this is the stunt belt from the ANH chasm swing. Carrie and Luke both had harnesses on under their costumes, as reported in Empire of Dreams docu. I think THIS belt was the belt used to gather the larger waistband of the dress and more securely than the softer leather belt. In all shots from this scene the belt appears thicker. I think this belt was used here to make Carrie's artificially enlarged waist appear smaller by itself being just a percentage bigger.
As for collar, high res shots from HD version and already posted observations on height/width differences of collar from one film to the other make me think the ANH collar was sewn differently. Mike has yet to explain to me exactly how in a way that I can describe right now. He has to use his hands to explain the folds to me and he's at work. So more on that later...
Got next day air on Making of Star Wars hoping for insights. A few neat observations there, but not anything unknown. A couple of great photos that just raise more questions than provide answers. Is anyone here going to Celebration Europe? Bet Mollo's going to be there... but then I think his Berman's seamstress was empowered with ALOT of freedom to interpret Mollo's sketched designs so... even he may not know much. But perhaps he would remember the seamstress's name.. and then another search begins...
Alli
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luminousbeing78
Registered:
Oct '05
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Date Posted:
5/8/07 8:58pm
Subject:
RE: Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
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Thanks for all the great photos! I just finished the gown tonight, and the pics make me feel a little better about my hoodie...I thought mine looked too short, or maybe I'm too tall lol! All I have left now is to attach the aluminum pieces to the belt.
I had fits with the collar. Somehow the neck hole stretched, and I had to gather it a little before sewing the hood and collar on permenantly. Honestly, I nearly cried.
**Slightly off topic...well, not really: Since I won't be able to finish my picnic gown corset in time  , I've decided to make the "clone wars cartoon" style Leia dress with some leftover white spandex. My question is this: I don't have enough to line the dress fully, but I do have a white long-sleeve leotard from my dancin' days. Would this be enough, or would it be best to line it top to bottom? I'm torn....I want to line it, but I get very very warm at cons....any advice would be welcome!
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Last_Chael
Registered:
Feb '06
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Date Posted:
5/9/07 1:16am
Subject:
RE: Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
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lucialeria posted:
I totally get and feel strongly that both dresses were now dual layered. So what's this OTHER layer? The mannequin is human formed and wouldn't need assistance to fill out the costume. And it wouldn't get cold... so what is this third? layer of what looks like a warmer and very different fabric?
Alli
Thanks for the photos, they're brilliant!!  It's really wonderful to read your speculations and theories about this dress! The detail is excellent!
In regards to the third layer, it looks to me like wadding (the stuff you put in quilts). I doubt it would have been there in the movie. Possibly they're using it to give the skirt a bit of shape?
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"Those three words, are said too much, They're not enough. All that I am, all that I ever was, Is here in your perfect eyes, they're all I can see" My Costuming Live Journal: http://last-chael.livejournal.com/
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kay_dee
Title: SFFF VIP
Council Member & Webmaster
Registered:
Jun '02
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Date Posted:
5/9/07 10:57am
Subject:
RE: Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
- Date Edited:
5/9/07 11:58am (1 edits total)
Edited By:
kay_dee
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luminousbeing78 posted:
Somehow the neck hole stretched, and I had to gather it a little before sewing the hood and collar on permenantly. Honestly, I nearly cried.
**Slightly off topic...well, not really: Since I won't be able to finish my picnic gown corset in time , I've decided to make the "clone wars cartoon" style Leia dress with some leftover white spandex. My question is this: I don't have enough to line the dress fully, but I do have a white long-sleeve leotard from my dancin' days. Would this be enough, or would it be best to line it top to bottom? I'm torn....I want to line it, but I get very very warm at cons....any advice would be welcome!
I learn new things on almost all my projects. For this costume, I read up a bit on sewing with knits (bought a book on it) and with things like neck holes, you are supposed to run a line of stay stitching right after you cut your fabric pieces so the neck won't stretch as you work with it and add the collar to it.
As for the clone wars Leia - I can't envision which costume that is? Do you mean the animated maquette? Hummm... lining it would probably be best. But only lining it partially won't look right either since you'd probably notice a difference in opacity. And if the sleeves are wide, you'd see your leotard long sleeve underneath. I'm not sure what the solution is?
I'm so sorry you couldn't get your picnic dress done in time  But it's better not to rush it. You can bring it to Dragon*Con and other conventions.
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kay_dee
Title: SFFF VIP
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Jun '02
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Date Posted:
5/9/07 11:02am
Subject:
RE: Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
- Date Edited:
5/9/07 11:55am (2 edits total)
Edited By:
kay_dee
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Wow Alli, you got some shots I didn't get. And I spent half my night on preview night stuck at that costume. LOL! That's why it's great when more than one person takes obsessive photographs
3rd Layer?: I agree, that is just a layer of batting you spotted under the dress and under the sleeve and is only used for putting things on the dress forms to help the costumes drape or flow well while on display. This stuff was on Han at FIDM, and lots of tissue paper was used under Padme's dresses at FIDM too. So no, there is no undersleeve or 3rd layer to the dress as far as I can ascertain.
Belt: Nice shot of the rivet! I was trying every which way to see if I could spot the way those darn things are attached on the belt.
My theory on the belt we see on display - they made a new one for Empire. Just like they made a new dress. That's not to say that they might not have had to make a special stunt belt for ANH, but sometimes the easier explanation seems just as logical. Another idea... Star Wars Holiday Special!
So many versions of this dress! ANH, Promo, and Empire... I wish I had time to upload comparison photos right now. But I was just comparing the Empire dress (photo taken during Empire with Luke) to the promo version of the dress where Carrie holds the Stormtrooper blaster (red background). These dresses are different! The collar on Empire is much shorter than the what I call the 'promo' version of the dress. I still can't decide if the collar at the museum exhibit is quite as short as the Empire dress collar though. I am torn between thinking that the museum exhibit might be the Empire Dress (although the collar looks about 1/4" to 1/2" too tall) or the promotional version of the dress seen in all the photos that appear to have been taken after Star Wars had finished filming. The sleeve opening on the museum dress matches that on all the promotional photos anyway.
I still think it is very funny that there are so many versions of this ONE iconic dress. And most people just see a white dress with a hood and call it Leia. I think even John Mallo and the seamstresses working for Berman's would think we are CRAZY for noticing these little differences. I hardly think they would remember. It was just another job and another thing they had to sew for one of hundreds of productions they worked on.
Making of Star Wars Book Lastly, regarding the Making of Star Wars book... I have not had a chance to sit down and read it yet. But I went to the book signing over the weekend. Since the author worked as an editor on Dressing A Galaxy, I told him a lot of us appreciated the side bars in that book addressing the Original Trilogy costumes... but we would have liked to have seen more about the OT costumes! So what are the chances that we would ever see a book that focused on the costumes of the Original Trilogy? He said it's not very likely. DAG was pretty much done specifically for Trisha (maybe as a favor) to help with her Oscar Nomination and aspirations. He even wondered if you could have a book about John Mallo's designs, since they were so heavily based on Ralph Mcquarrie's concept art. (I think he failed to see my point - credit whomever you must for the designs and concepts - we just want to know more about the OT costumes! I didn't say that to him though.) I then said to him, 'well, there would be some interest in a book like that...' but I understood that for starters, most of the costumes are not part of the LFL archive. They seem to have been auctioned off and are part of private collections. Detailed photos of many of the costumes just don't exist - etc. He agreed that yes, much of it was the property of Berman's.
Haha - I think he's doing autograph signings at C4. We should all just kind of mention 'hey, what about an OT costume book' Maybe if we all nag him he'll have to mention it to the powers that be at Lucas Publishing! LOL!
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Kay Dee's Costumes: http://kay-dee.net/costume The San Francisco Fan Force: http://www.sffanforce.com Rebel Legion - Endor Base: http://www.endorbase.org
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luminousbeing78
Registered:
Oct '05
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Date Posted:
5/9/07 4:14pm
Subject:
RE: Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
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Thanks, Kay Dee...stay stitching....that's what my mom told me as well. AAARRRGGG!! It was weeks beteween the time I cut it out and the time I actually started it. The maquette version, well, I'm lining it. I think that would be best as well. I've always thought it was so cute, and I made a mock-up....you were right--the leotard looked crazy. Lining is the way to go. As for the picnic corset, it'll give me something to do over the summer during breaks while working on my MR dress...
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***Celebrating our seventh anniversary at C4!***
BH May 2000-2007 AH
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lavagrrrl
Title: CR, Website Admin, & Rebel Legion Liaison, Detroit
Registered:
May '02
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Date Posted:
5/9/07 4:28pm
Subject:
RE: Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
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Amazing photos!
I've seen the exhibit twice, and the dress was on the form in different ways both times. I also crawled on the floor, but you both got much better photos. Thanks for sharing your observations.
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I'd just as soon kiss a Wookiee! http://www.r2-detroit.com http://www.BlastyLava.com "Most truths are so naked that people feel sorry for them and cover them up, at least a little bit." Edward R. Murrow
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luminousbeing78
Registered:
Oct '05
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Date Posted:
5/11/07 9:30pm
Subject:
RE: Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
- Date Edited:
5/11/07 9:32pm (1 edits total)
Edited By:
luminousbeing78
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Just finished my dress and belt...I hope the pleating at the neck does not compromise the dress too much. It is so comfy, though, and I can't wait to wear it!
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BH May 2000-2007 AH
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kay_dee
Title: SFFF VIP
Council Member & Webmaster
Registered:
Jun '02
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Date Posted:
5/13/07 8:10pm
Subject:
RE: Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
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It looks nice! And it seems you were able to disguise the pleating toward the back so it is hidden by the hood.
Hopefully we can all agree on a photo shoot date at C4 - oh boy!
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HeatherD
Registered:
Feb '05
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Date Posted:
5/14/07 10:36am
Subject:
RE: Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
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kay_dee posted:
Carrie's rubber comment is interesting. Perhaps because that scene is done in water she had on some sort of wetsuit that isn't really worn in the rest of the movie?
- Kay Dee
She must have been, otherwise they wouldn't have been able to keep the PG rating! Everybody knows what happens to wet white swimsuits, lol
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HeatherD
Registered:
Feb '05
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Date Posted:
5/14/07 11:28am
Subject:
RE: Leia ANH First Gown...Help me... Obiwan Kenobi....;
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I just finished reading all 24 pages! *falls off chair* All of my questions have now been answered, yay! lol. I'm sure I'll think of some more later About how long does this thing take to put together, do you think?
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