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Author Topic: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0
formorach 
Registered: Oct '06
Date Posted: 10/11/06 12:09pm Subject: RE: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0
I'm not sure why but I've followed a tutorial for Photoshop of a site thats similar to Webbers tutorial. But when I use the polygonal lasoo for the "sweeping blade" effects, it stops me from editing the film. In other words, once I use it it doesn't show colour changes or anything. Can anyone help?

Also, in Webbers tutorial he makes a new layer, then draws the line over the blade on the same layer. Yet when I draw a line it creates a new layer for each and every one. Why is this?

I'd appreciate any help you guys can give.

Much obliged.

 
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StevenBills  1339 posts
Registered: Jan '06
15586_Duel
Date Posted: 10/12/06 3:46pm Subject: RE: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0
Movie

Done in AE 5.5 Last December.

CC Please.

Steven

 

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LSFightChoreographer  141 posts
Registered: Jul '06
14855_Fan Films
Date Posted: 10/21/06 8:56am Subject: RE: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0 - Date Edited: 10/21/06 8:57am (1 edits total) Edited By: LSFightChoreographer
pretty nice. sabers are a bit to bright for the environement. I could be a critic about Choreography and camera qualifications, but that doesn't relate to the topic.

PM me if you want all that

EDIT: that post should have been placed in the LS Efeects thread

 

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StevenBills  1339 posts
Registered: Jan '06
15586_Duel
Date Posted: 10/21/06 8:34pm Subject: RE: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0
My bad.

 

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Vidina  3012 posts
Registered: Jan '06
47925_Secret Apprentice
Date Posted: 10/24/06 1:52am Subject: RE: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0
LSFightChoreographer posted:
EDIT: that post should have been placed in the LS Efeects thread


...you're pretending to be a mod in here aswell?

 

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StevenBills  1339 posts
Registered: Jan '06
15586_Duel
Date Posted: 10/24/06 7:12am Subject: RE: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0
That is what I was going to say.

SB

 

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SithHunter92  58 posts
Registered: Nov '06
44059_Jedi
Date Posted: 11/22/06 5:08pm Subject: RE: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0
all hail the mighty Dorkman!!!

 

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SithHunter92  58 posts
Registered: Nov '06
44059_Jedi
Date Posted: 11/22/06 5:17pm Subject: RE: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0
sweet movie!

 

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Sojourn  244 posts
Registered: Dec '05
14904_Speeder
Date Posted: 11/30/06 4:08pm Subject: RE: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0
formorach posted:
I'm not sure why but I've followed a tutorial for Photoshop of a site thats similar to Webbers tutorial. But when I use the polygonal lasoo for the "sweeping blade" effects, it stops me from editing the film. In other words, once I use it it doesn't show colour changes or anything. Can anyone help?

Also, in Webbers tutorial he makes a new layer, then draws the line over the blade on the same layer. Yet when I draw a line it creates a new layer for each and every one. Why is this?

I'd appreciate any help you guys can give.

Much obliged.


I know it's been a while since you asked this, but I just read it now, and saw that no one had answered you (at least not in this thread). From what I understand, you're finding that when you're drawing a line in GIMP, it is putting it on a separate layer from the new layer you're creating over the source image. The thing is, a line is a separate kind of object from what would appear in a regular layer, and therefore (from the program's perspective) needs its own, special, kind of layer (you may have noticed that you can't edit it like a normal layer, and it may even have different symbols next to it, etc.). It needs to be changed to a regular type of layer first, and to do that, you need to rasterize the object. This will turn it from an editable line object (which, like text layers, is not pixel-based) to an editable pixellated image, which you can then merge down onto your new layer. Kind of an annoying technicality, but when doing other operations, it's helpful that the program has that setting in place.

When you try to merge the line down into the new layer, the program may give you a prompt, asking you if you want to rasterize it. If that doesn't do it, there's a control for it somewhere, in one of the menus. Right-clicking might even do it for you. Knowing that you have to do it, and that you'll then be able to work with it in the way that you want to, though, I think is the important part. I hope this helped (despite its being a little late!)! happy

Take care,
Sojourn

 

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jedimaster001 
Registered: Oct '06
23975_Anakin Skywalker
Date Posted: 12/14/06 5:39pm Subject: RE: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0
here is a lightsaber test i did using Brandeni's Paint method.

hope you like it..


http://www.yousendit.com/download/Qyg7tTTH4oB5TA%3D%3D

 
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illbeats  370 posts
Registered: Jun '05
41722_Darth Nihilus
Date Posted: 12/15/06 3:11am Subject: RE: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0 - Date Edited: 12/15/06 4:27am (1 edits total) Edited By: illbeats
Here is my tutorial on the fastest and easiest way to rotoscope lightsabers in after effects.

Download 50 megs
http://www.mediamax.com/soundsforsamplers/Hosted/smallrototut.wmv

or
Stream
http://forcefx.proboards43.com/index.cgi?board=filmmaking&action=display&thread=1166180782

 

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jedimaster001 
Registered: Oct '06
23975_Anakin Skywalker
Date Posted: 12/15/06 6:32am Subject: RE: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0
Hey, guys i decided to make a 2nd test using brandeni's method .

its kinda longer ...please feel free to let me no what i could do to improve it.


http://download.yousendit.com/ED0935A87970B8A8

 
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rotolabor 
Registered: Jan '07
Date Posted: 1/16/07 5:53pm Subject: RE: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0 - Date Edited: 1/16/07 5:56pm (1 edits total) Edited By: rotolabor
Hi,

This being my first post, I don't want to sound like an 11 year old. (Which I am not)
(If there is another place where I should be posting this, please tell me)
I've read through the whole first post, and the welcome newbies thread, (I found this site after I started rotoscoping) and check ed out the links. (BTW, if any of you want LIA+, this website is temporarily hosting it: )

I've gone through these methods so far:

This is too slow, especially since for some reason my copy of Photoshop 6 won't open filmstrips, so I had to do rotoscope one .tif file at a time.
Then I tried this one, but it didn't work because for some reason the F# keys wouldn't work.

I am now using this, but it also pretty slow, and doesn't give the best results.

Is there a way to do it faster? I'm not asking to not have to do it frame by frame, simply wondering if there is some reason why the F keys didn't work in the second method I tried, but they are now, and if there is some reason photoshop won't open the filmstrip. Perhaps I missed one of the steps in the tutorial.... doh!

I have Photoshop 6, Photoshop Elements 3.0 (I think), and Adobe Premiere 3.0 (I think), and I'm using a Win. 2000 for the rotoscoping, and an XP for running Premiere.

Thanks,

Rotolabor

 
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StevenBills  1339 posts
Registered: Jan '06
15586_Duel
Date Posted: 1/21/07 11:51am Subject: RE: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0
I would suggest that you go download the trial of After Effects, and then try this method, which, if done "right", looks waay better than the filmstrip photoshop method.

I hope that helps, and welcome to the boards.

SB

 

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VaporTrail  9980 posts
Registered: May '02
14913_Obi-Wan
Date Posted: 2/10/07 10:19pm Subject: RE: HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0
I just bridged a new frontier in my world of 'saber construction. I got some of the 1/2"x40" carbon fiber blades they sell at RandomSabers.com (which Ryan/Dorkman use, and apparantly is the same kind used in RotS), and they're ridiculously light. However, my hilts have an inner diameter of about 1-3/8".
So, today I went to the good ol' hardware store and bought a dowel of that diameter. I cut off 10" which will fit nicely inside the hilt, and then I drilled a 1/2" hole through the middle to the length that would go into the hilt (about 4", leaving me with 36" outside).

It's late, so I haven't drilled a hole into the side to secure this into the hilt yet.. but I think it'll do very nicely. However, I can't get the blade back out. It's fitting in there pretty snugly. I still have an extra inch sticking out of the wood encasement, but it's not wiggling a milimeter in either direction. Therefore, this blade will only be usable with this hilt and if for some reason I break the blade (tho this hasn't been a huge problem with anyone so far), I'll have to repeat this whole process. I'll prolly end up just chopping off the extra inch at the tip, should my hammer fail me tomorrow.

I may go back to the store and get a tap, which will essentially create a precise hole for the screw to fit in, thus negating the need to go all the way through to the other side. In theory, this is how I could get it to fit in multiple hilts if I drill them all in the same location, but I'm not too worried about that right now. I don't mind having the spare blades, so long as I have an extra $30 laying around when I need one.

Still.
It feels amazing. I'm so glad I picked up a couple of these. I can't wait to go practice tomorrow, though for most practices I'll probably still use the heavier wood counterparts. They're cheaper, so I don't have to worry about so much wear and tear on the expensive blades, and also I don't mind getting my muscles moving a bit during training.

Yep.

-Vaportrail

 

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