HOW TO MAKE LIGHTSABERS 2.0

what saga have you been watching? i could almost tell you which blade maul was using to make those sounds.

 

I've seen all of them, but I've never heard any of those sounds. I'm sure Dorkman a good sound editor though, so he probably edited them himself.

 

those sounds are all from episode 1. direct unedited rips

 

The first clash is an edit of a clash echo, the second and third I never heard in Episode I, the fourth is an edit of a clash in Episode I, the fifth is one Dorkman probably made himself, the sixth is an edit of a clash in Episode IV I think, the seventh is an edit of a clash in Episode I, and I have no idea where the last one is from, so I think Dorkman made it himself.

 

they're all from episode 1, unedited.

 

I think it would be best for Dorkman to tell us.

 

XD
I like the soundfx from the last movie, how were they done? Using a software or the old fashioned way?

 

Um...not a whole ot of sounds are created 'from software'. They're put together, and modified in, software, but the majority of foley stuff is still done organically.

 

aside from some of r2s beeps and varios computer console sounds, i can't think of any star wars sound effects that are entirely synth

 

Hi,
Just thought I'd add my little archive of un-effected (Is that a word) lightsaber pics. There are 37 of them in total, and all accept about 3 of them are from the AOTC DVD. They're awesome for some practice, and there's also a mirror at savefile in hte 'everything topic' provided by DVeditor.

 

Hey all. I have yet to see a question about this or something that related to how to do this.. so I thought I would post it in case "someone" was interested. Thought you all would like to know I have found a interesting way of making a "beam" for my stunt prop sabers. I was having a difficult time figureing out how to make something that was lightweight and yet durable and I could attach to my stunt props. If anyone is interested in how I did this please e-mail me at lightguru@hotmail.com. Please put something about lightsabers in the heading so I know not to delete it in my junkmail folder.

Here is a link to a pic of the prop saber with the "beam"
http://spaces.msn.com/actorsgulid/photos/?_c02_owner=1

 

Why not just, uh, tell us?

 

^ He speaks the truth. Please tell us

 

I didn't want to take up too much room on the chat board. But ok... here it goes.

Parts you need:

1 stunt prop (I made mine out of hardware, but I think this could work for machine made as well).

1 4' long floresent light tube guard (Item #163817 at Lowe's $3.44)

1 roll of Duck Tape.

Rivets various lengths (I used 1/8 inch diameter rivets)

1 Rivet Gun.

1 Screw/Drill gun with a 1/8 drill bit.


Assembly instuctions.

Take the two caps at the end of the tube off. Then cut the tube the whole length so it curls under itself and becomes smaller. (I used a rotary tool, but you can use anything that cuts plastic.)

Once the tube is small enough in diameter to fit inside your stunt prop put it inside as far down as you can get it. Once you have put it in as far as it can go take a tape measure and measure from the "emitter" 3 feet along the tube and cut it again there. You now have 3 feet of tube sticking out.

Now what I did was to take my drill and drill holes into the stunt prop making sure I went into the plastic tubeing. I did this when I was riveting some of my parts on to make it look better, but you can really do it anytime. Try get at least 4 rivets opposite each other into the stunt prop, this really does give a good grip to the tube. You amy need to use longer rivets so you can get far enough into the tube so it will catch. Then take the Duck Tape and tape the tube sticking out so it makes it a little more stiff.

That's really it. Feel free to find other ways.. this is just how I did it. I banged them together pretty good too and they seem to hold up.

Any questions please e-mail me. Please forgive any spelling or grammer errors on here as well.

 

It's probably not of any use but I just wanted it to be known, that for anyone intending to display their saber work onto an NTSC display in legal ranges...anything that is meant to be pure white (aka the saber core) should not have RGB values of 255,255,255...but instead values of 235,235,235.

The reasoning for this is because NTSC broadcast stations have a range to operate within to ensure good broadcast picture quality. The true NTSC range is smaller than the computer RGB range. The same applies to pure black,do no set something to 0,0,0 if it is intended to be seen on an NTSC television. If you do it will cause a crushed black (much like the Emperor from RotJ). Same for the high end of white, it will have a peaked white and become this overexposed looking glare on the screen.

To Display Pure White on an NTSC Monitor:
RGB= 235,235,235


To Display Pure Black on an NTSC Monitor:
RGB= 16,16,16

 

I would like to make one additional suggestion for my technique for adding the blade. Put ducktape all around the blade BEFORE you place it into the saber hilt.. also adding some faom insulation and or some gorilla glue helps keep it from slipping around in there when really hitting them together.

Thanks.

 

That video tutorial on how to make lightsabers,do you have to do that for every frame if you were making lightsabers on a video?

 

You have to place the mask points for every frame, but you only have to apply the glow once per blade.

 

You have to place the mask points for every frame, but you only have to apply the glow once per blade.

Only if you're doing it in Photoshop, and applying the glow effects to a Filmstrip file. If you are using Photoshop but don't have Premiere, then you will have to break the video up into separate frames and edit them all independently.

. . . Unless someone knows another way of doing it (not using After Effects or another compositor, but an image editor)?

Take care,
Sojourn

 

AN IMPORTANT UPDATE:

This is how lightsaber really looks like if the height of the "ignited" lightsaber props:

[image=http://starwars.wikicities.com/images/a/a8/Shaak_Ti.jpg]

I hope they will update the height soon.

 

*tilts head and scratches it*

Que?

 

Dorkman,

I've watched Ryan vs. Dorkman many times and i am curious as to how YOU do you're rotoscoping, i'am in production of my own Star Wars Movie and i need the best i can get for postproduction effects, i am using Adobe After Effects, can you help me out

Master Valar

 

I'd like to design a lightsaber prop that is not like most lightsaber props. Studying the reference photos of every lightsaber, I want to create a lightsaber prop that is more accurate than Dooku's lightsaber (see below). As for the blade, I need to create a blade that is the same as those seen in the prequel movies (at this point I assume that the lightsaber is more than 12 inches).
[image=http://starwars.wikicities.com/images/0/0d/Mr_dooku_saber.jpg]

 

...I wish you would learn how to ask questions, Bryan.

 

I am in agreement. What is it you are asking? How can you make a prop more real then something you can hold in your hand? Do you mean more realistic looking (as in it looks just like the one in the films)? Do you mean the lightsaber acutally works? If that is the case you need to either A: Go back to school, B: Stop posting on this board as you are asking dumb questions on purpose, or C: All of the above.

And to answer your second question (if it really is a real question) the blade on the lightsaber is usually around 3 feet comming from the emitter to tip. Now with anything in films you can change anything you want to make it work for you.