Lightsabers & Blasters LED Blade Q and A's

Discussion in 'Costuming and Props' started by UltraSWG, Aug 8, 2005.

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  1. Corbin-Das Jedi Knight

    Member Since:
    Nov 28, 2005
    star 2
    Hi guys.
    Muffin, the stuff I'm doing is available in several different colors, though I'm not sure how many different ones I'll be doing to start off with. Some of the more unique colors are:

    SILVER
    WHITE
    RED
    ORANGE
    ROYAL BLUE
    YELLOW
    FOLIAGE GREEN
    TITANIUM GRAY
    BRIGHT BRASS
    ANTIQUE BRASS

    Of course, there's "regular" gun colors too: black, tan, brown, a few OD greens, dark and light gray and a brushed stainless steel look. The different colors can be applied overtop of each other too (think camo). The different colors can be mixed to get custom colors as well (red+blue = purple). I'm not sure if/when I'll start doing custom camo jobs, but we'll see. It may be more labor intensive than I'd be willing to do while keeping prices down.



    Corbin


  2. GreytaleNovastar1138 Jedi Master

    Member Since:
    Dec 8, 2005
    star 4
    Saber Makers Choreo Competition... The S.M.A.C.C. D.O.W.N.S.!!

    Saber Makers Annual Choreography Competition...
    Dueling ONLY With NON-rotoscoped Sabers

    ...hopefully the idea will be solidified more as the months progress. Keep your eyes open for more, and feel free to post suggestions about having this kind of competition!

    http://youtube.com/watch?v=LyxlEEyqw-M
  3. TheMuffin Force Ghost

    Member Since:
    Nov 4, 2005
    star 2
    Now that would be cool. If only I could build a second one.
  4. Corbin-Das Jedi Knight

    Member Since:
    Nov 28, 2005
    star 2
    Time to lay down the SMACC DOWNS!!!! [face_peace]

    I really like this idea. It helps bring together people from the saber community, it let's folks enjoy themselves, it showcases lighted saber choreography and without promoting one type over another (you can use Luxeon, EL, FX, Hyperdyne, etc) and lastly, it gives exposure to the general public and hopefully will bring new people in. I'd say it has all the earmarks of an event that should provide nothing but good times and comradery.

    Who knows, some more exposure like this and we might end up with a new "extreme sport". [face_laugh]

    Unfortunately, I'm not very good at choreography. Actual dueling is more my thing. That's cool though. I can always learn. LOL. After having met with Quinn, Novastar and several others at C4 to discuss what we'd like to see happen within the saber community, I'm confident that choreography like this, and the continuing work of groups like NY Jedi and LA Jedi will continue to gain us more exposure and bring more people into this fun world of sabers.


    On a similar note:

    This Spring I'll be converting the back couple acres of my property into a park/workout/dueling area that hopefully will allow some local folks to come out and enjoy themselves with stuff like this. I already have a 40 foot "arena" that's perfect for dueling. It's actually a wooden round pen for running a horse, but with 7-8 foot tall sides, a door that closes and blends into the rest of the wall and a viewing stand overlooking the area below, it has "fighting pit" written all over it. We're going to be selling our horse in the next few months anyway, so the round pen will not be used for anything else.


    Corbin
  5. GreytaleNovastar1138 Jedi Master

    Member Since:
    Dec 8, 2005
    star 4
    Hey, the fighting pit idea sounds great... maybe it's the "dueler's dugout"? :)

    Glad you liked my fun acronym regarding the S.M.A.C.C.--I've been entertaining the idea for several months now, but came up with the name in thirty seconds when I was finalizing things a few days ago. I don't know WHY it came so easily, but... it did.

    For the record, I've been teaching saber fencing and "actually" fencing much much longer than I've really done any serious staged combat. In my experience and study, it is the true martial artists that do the "best" staged combat. Don't just take my opinion... look at Bruce Lee, Jet Li, Jackie Chan, Benny the Jet, Sammo, Chow Yun Fat, Michelle Yeoh, and the list goes on. Oh gee, did I forget someone important--I think so. Yuen Wo Ping. ;) Seriously, now THAT guy {triple equals sign} God. :)

    One great example of a nice lesson on the "progression" of basic martial art in a movie--is Return of The Dragon, mainly focusing on the scene where Bruce Lee and Chuck Norris pair up and fight it out. I cannot explain it all here naturally, but if a viewer KNOWS anything about martial art... you'll see a progression from direct attack to a block/parry & riposte to a feint attack to a counter-attack, etc. etc. It's truly a BRILLIANT example of where Bruce Lee's genius in both presenting martial art to the viewer in an exciting fashion... AND keeping as best to "somewhat relative" to real-world actions (and not just "movie-fu")... was really above and beyond. I have full confidence that Lee and Norris must have worked very well together to create that scene.

    Anyhow. Sorry to blither on, but... yeah... choreography (in my thinking) goes far beyond just making moves up... there are so many considerations, it can be mind-boggling. Style, period, weaponry, character, story, tempo, mood, etc. I mean, is it a "contest" in the story or a fight to the death? Are the characters "super-heroes" or totally mortal just as you or I? Uber-trained or just run-of-the-mill? Is there something they'd NEVER do? Or is there nothing that they WOULDn't do?

    Well... enough de-railing the LED thread. I only hope we really DO build a good strong community out of this idea... and we don't simply have 1000s of people with sabers sitting in their closets that only come out at events, or for five minutes when friend X or Y is visiting... ;)
  6. Greybaine Jedi Padawan

    Member Since:
    Dec 19, 2007
    I've been looking at seoul z-power p4's. They seem to have a really high lumen output for pretty cheap, are they any good? Anyways, that's not my real question...... WHAT THE HECK DOES U-BIN AND T-BIN MEAN?!?!?!? GRRRRRRRR.....:mad:

    Thanx for all the help.
  7. GreytaleNovastar1138 Jedi Master

    Member Since:
    Dec 8, 2005
    star 4
    In the case of bin code letters such as "T" or "U" for the Luxeon series, they often refer to differing max cont. current and lumens ratings. Sometimes, the "T" will show up in different colors... sometimes it won't.

    In general--you can ignore the part #s unless the specifications aren't listed when you buy. Just look for the "correct" current you want, and the lumens rating that suits you best. Most people lean toward the "highest" lumens rating in any given color... which usually have a higher current draw as well.
  8. acerocket Jedi Knight

    Member Since:
    Jan 20, 2006
    star 1
    In the case of the Seoul P4 LED, the U and T bin codes refer to the luminous flux. T being 80 lumens (typical) and U being 100 lumens (typical) when run at 350 mA.
  9. Greybaine Jedi Padawan

    Member Since:
    Dec 19, 2007
    Thanx for the info. I found a pretty good deal on the u-bin's w/stars. I'm hoping to get them and use gells or color disks to get the colors I need. Hopefully the transmission ratings on the gells are right so that the color that passes through wont get to washed out. Am I correct in assuming that 200lm passing through 36% transmission would be about equal to 72lm?

    S.M.A.C.C. sounds awesome. I really hope it takes off.
  10. GreytaleNovastar1138 Jedi Master

    Member Since:
    Dec 8, 2005
    star 4
    If you're talking about using some kind of light filter with the white, the best test is a visual one with your own eyes. Especially when you take into consideration the many ways you could go about filtering the light. Some people use a little "disc" that goes just above the LED. Others might try a diffuser film or tube/whatever that is already colored somewhat and acts as a filter. The type of diffusion you use (i.e. Corbin's film style, Ultra/Gelu/"gift wrap" style, TCSS style, etc. etc.) will also play into the game... along with blade length and if you are using a mirrored tip.

    I do not have a lot of experience with filtering, and the reason for that is... what little I *DID* try with filters... sucked pretty badly, so I abandoned the idea. Then again, that was back in 2006 trying to get a "magenta-ish" blade out of a white Lux III with Corbin's film on a "shorter" 30 inch blade or so with a mirrored tip. I also tried playing around with blue + a filter... then red... neither worked very well, as the transference of light looked like arse.

    But... trying this with the proverbial 200lm might just work ok! Ya never know! I might point you to look at this gent's work...
    http://youtube.com/watch?v=OHTcL2RPeRQ

    It's an RGB... not the brightest... but... looks decent to me! :) Obi-Dar did a very nice job.
  11. aoifrost Jedi Knight

    Member Since:
    Dec 4, 2005
    star 1
    Okay, that is simply amazing!!

    Does anyone know which LED Flashlight he used specifically, where to buy it, and MSRP? [face_idea]

    EDIT: Think this one looks like a winner? http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/lights/8db4/
  12. erv Jedi Knight

    Member Since:
    Oct 25, 2005
    star 1


    well, I'll slightly moderate that in a sense that building a blade, just like the rest about sabers, is like grandma recipes. You can listen and even look around to *try* to see / understand how it works, when you try yourself following the instructions, you don't get the expected result.
    There are many "tricks" to consider when building a blade, I did my best to summerzise that in this tutorial
    HERE

    my blades are *slightly* different (sometimes refered as "Erv' Style" by a few people [face_thinking]) but this tutorial can easily be adapted to the parts you guys have in the US. Two schools about outside diffusion : ultra blades and some TCSS based ones leave the outside of the Polycarbonate blade polished and shinny, personnally I unpolish it by sanding it in a special way. This way "cleanning" the blade is only sanding, and it's easier and cheaper than trying to polish and hide the marks and scratches resulting of a duel (especially knowing that some practice duelling... with trees ;) ). Plus it improves light diffusion.

    In any case, feel free to comment this tutoriel online on the website if you like it (or not). It covers more than "just building a blade", however some info starts to be outdated, I have to clean up my PDF files.

    On another note, I'm not posting very much here, new position, looking for a new house and... soldering Crystal Focus Boards.
    Since we're close, here's a little pic (thanks to novastar for proposing me the inspiring little text at the back of the pic)
    [image=http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Fun/TheLordOfTheBoards.jpg]


  13. GreytaleNovastar1138 Jedi Master

    Member Since:
    Dec 8, 2005
    star 4
    I would have to agree with Erv regarding blades. Especially on making a blade that is very evenly lit. Thankfully, folks like Eandori are making some headway on that concept... that is, making a bit of a "how to" video:

    http://youtube.com/watch?v=VyJVyRDm0Y4

    Additionally, there is the EXTREMELY important concept that Erv mentions regarding people who want "shiny" blades. True, good for "looking nice"--bad for diffusion. Now it is true that I do not *technically* sand my own blades... but... they actually "sand themselves". Yes, that's right, if you duel with your saber enough (say, as much as I have), your blade will LITERALLY begin to diffuse itself. It is definitely a good reason why my Flange III sabers look very nice when compared next to the Hyberblades:

    http://youtube.com/watch?v=k5Ws91SGpDA

    ...as some of you have seen. Anyhow, those blades have ONLY the "gift wrap" style film in them, but do not contain any of the Corbin "coring" film. In addition, I place reflective tape at the base of the blade where it can't be seen by a viewer because it is into the blade mount area (usually about 2" at the least), and naturally, I use a mirrored tip.

    I would also like to raise the point of the Lux community needing a good LED saber building tutorial video, or really a chain of videos detailed by some step-by-step processes... well, it's true, that might be pretty cool. We'll see how that goes...

    Oh, and for those that didn't know... check it out:
    http://youtube.com/watch?v=L0cWMLMyOr8

    Crazy!! :)
  14. Greybaine Jedi Padawan

    Member Since:
    Dec 19, 2007
    Hey, has anyone made a list of the best diffuseres? I was wondering if anyone had tried something like waxpaper for a diffuser, I thought of the idea while watching a movie with japanese lanterns in it. Also does anyone know what is used behined the LCD screen in the older cell phones. It's some kind of diffusing film.

    Anyways,
    IT'S BEEN TO BLEED'N QUIET ON HERE!!!!!!
  15. GreytaleNovastar1138 Jedi Master

    Member Since:
    Dec 8, 2005
    star 4
    Dang!

    (as seen in previous post) I would have to agree with Erv regarding blades. Especially on making a blade that is very evenly lit. Thankfully, folks like Eandori are making some headway on that concept... that is, making a bit of a "how to" video:

    http://youtube.com/watch?v=VyJVyRDm0Y4
    Watch me!!!

    As to a "list" of diffusers... well... visit most any sabershop site (for example Tim's site customsabershop, or Alex's ultrablades) and you'll see about 3 or 4 major styles of blades. For the mostpart, it's really only two styles when you get down to brass tacks... "coring style" and "more evenly lit" style.

    There are probably even BETTER ways to diffuse a blade, but it would likely skyrocket the price. And no saber blade is worth (at the MAX) a retail of any more than $25 or so in my opinion. $40 would be ludicrous, and you know, above that would be like paying $6 for a AA alkaline battery! What the F!!!

    This being said--I (and others) know a way that would REALLY be gorgeous diffusion-wise (probably about the best you could get)... but it would require custom machining and/or custom extruding of the Poly-C tubes themselves... and THAT would cost a small fortune. Literally jump the price from like $15 to $20... to like... oh... I don't know... $300 or something STUPID.

    So... by all means, experiment with diffusion, but... to me, "really good" and/or "good"... is good enough! Especially with newer, more efficient LEDs showing up every 6 months or so or whatever.
  16. GreytaleNovastar1138 Jedi Master

    Member Since:
    Dec 8, 2005
    star 4
    By the way, with the recent batch of CF v3 flying out the door so quickly, I thought it was a good idea to start getting a semi-unofficial troubleshooting FAQ/guide together.

    So, if you have one and you're having some issues getting things to be all "happ'nin"...
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?p=79435#post79435

    I'll have to see about preventing comments from going in there so that it can essentially remain a "FAQ" or helper document, or whatever.

    Hope everyone had a nice Easter. :)
  17. Do-Clo Force Ghost

    Member Since:
    Dec 5, 2005
    star 1
    Sorry to derail the thread but I need to post some information that many of you need to be aware off:

    I have been receiving emails from a Darrell Johnson who for some reason has a problem with my saber building and my blades. He has threatened to spread his statements around forums so I decided to save him the trouble of doing it and post them for everyone to see, along with my replies to him:

    Johnson
    Hello Mr. Do Clo I'am writing you this letter because I have a friend who recently bought one of your lightsabers and man I have to level with you.....

    The lightsabers you make are very low quality. My 10 year old son could make the same quality as yours. Your sell some for $130 dollars, some times $200 dollars. You need to lower your prices your ripping people off... Your sabers should be sold for no more than 40-50 $ at the most.

    I've seen you use a plumbing tube as a emitter, like come on anyone cAn go to a plumbing store and slap that one.

    And what is with this " Do clo blade" ? Thats not a do clo blade its Polypropylene and corbin film NOT a do clo blade!

    Your sell you blades for like $37 dollars! Now I know your probly trying hard but some people just aren't meant to be Machinists. I have 30 years of metal work and I am barley certified.

    So im not trying to be a total jerk but you need to redo your website and lower the prices because me and a bunch of other people feel that this needed to be done... Its going to get around the forum's eventually so if i were you I would lower your prices.

    My Response
    Interesting that you picked out one of the early sabers that was made from
    sinktube with a luxeon III led and a machined aluminum blade holder, those
    sabers sold for around 80.00 and came with a blade. Instead of what you are
    offering which is a static prop. I would like to know what forum that you
    are talking about as I have a good standing on the forums that I belong too.

    I would also like to know what saber that your friend purchased from me as I
    have had no complaints from anyone. I also wonder that since you seem to
    take offense at my blade, have you also confronted other blade makers
    that have made a signature blade?

    To sum it all up I am glad that you have such a talented 10 year old son,
    but if you want to make claims about my sabers then you need to provide some
    details so I can address particular issues


    Johnson
    I dont know the name of the saber he bought but it had a plumbing pipe for an emitter, goldish color,apparenly you found it at some plumbing store. he dosent want to give his name because he says he will feel bad ....

    My prop i professionally made son, all yours sabers are either put together from The Customsaber shop or made from a plumbing sink tube which is Maybe $8 at a plumbing store... I offer all my clients to have there saber blade acessable if they would like for NO extra charge! Not 37$ for a blade you can buy for 15$ from a plastic selling store. And don't say you haven't had any complaints from anyone thats a lie , i've been told that a customer of yours sent his saber back to you for a refund because it was low quality.

    I would never buy one of your sabers, your lucky im not selling anymore son or you wouldn't make a dime. So you need to lower your prices your robbing people of there hard earned money. I'm going to look in to the authorities to get them to force you to buy a business license Because im sure you dont have one so please be a fair prson and lower your prices cuz this is going to be spread around eventually..

    My Response
    I would like to know just when the last time is that you looked at anything
    that I have sold or built? I had one customer over a year ago send a saber
    back because he didn't like it, and then the guy sat on it for about 5
    months before he got around to sending it back and the saber was poorly
    packed and was broken in shipping so he got his money back from the post
    office from the shipping insurance.

    Everything that I build is machined aluminum not TCSS parts or plumbing
    parts
  18. Sister_Sola Manager Emeritus

    Member Since:
    Nov 19, 2002
    star 4
    Wow, I wonder where on earth the guy is coming from!

    He suggests you charge $5 to assemble it? That's pretty cheesy - even if it only takes you an hour, it's not like anyone's only going to charge $5 an hour for their labour! And I'll bet it takes longer than an hour anyway - although having no skill making lightsabres I have no idea of the time involved.

    Looks like you handled it very well Do-Clo. I hope this guy doesn't cause you or anyone else any more trouble.
  19. Do-Clo Force Ghost

    Member Since:
    Dec 5, 2005
    star 1
    Thanks Sister Sola, I hope this is the end of this problem, I have seen to many things get out of hand so I wanted all the information to be out in the open.
  20. LAN-ED-TUL Jedi Master

    Member Since:
    Oct 28, 2005
    star 4
    as stated on TCSS, probably just jealous he cant build sabers as nice as resident sabersmith DO-CLO has!
  21. GreytaleNovastar1138 Jedi Master

    Member Since:
    Dec 8, 2005
    star 4
    Yup, this dude is covered on TCSS. Mr. Johnson's comments--and might I add *BS* comments--are out in the open, and there is nothing he can do now.

    It's sad to say this but... we ALL KNOW it's true what I'm about to type: ...there's one around every corner. The free lunch trouser snake. Oh, pardon me, was that a play on words? Oups, je suis desole'... mon joue de mots--oh la la... ce n'est pas cool. ;)

    Anyhow. There's not much else to say. Just ignore him, and maybe someday the saber of REASON will smack him upside the head... if not by a bearded dude in a brown bathrobe.

    ;)
  22. Jedi-Loreen Jedi Master

    Member Since:
    Dec 2, 2002
    star 4
    What a jerk that guy is. :mad:

    And he can't write or spell worth a darn, either. Which, in my mind, makes his case seem even weaker.

    Do-Clo has more people who can vouch for him, than against him. :)

    I have not bought any of his sabers (yet), but a friend has, so I can attest to the quality of his work, as many can.

    Plus, I consider him a friend
    .


    You've got more friends, than enemies, Don! [face_peace]

    I hope that's the last you hear of and from that guy, in any form.
  23. TheMuffin Force Ghost

    Member Since:
    Nov 4, 2005
    star 2
    Reading that fellas messages made my brain hurt....Son.

    Heres a tidbit of knowledge. If you've used a lathe or drill press one time in your life, you have metal work experience. It's just limited. Man, what a freaking tool. I hope this guy is crying in a corner from the severe ownage you put on him.
  24. Do-Clo Force Ghost

    Member Since:
    Dec 5, 2005
    star 1
    For a whole new direction here is a video you can check out on a saber that I just recently finished. It is a red lux III with a MR Maul sound board and one of my blades.
  25. GreytaleNovastar1138 Jedi Master

    Member Since:
    Dec 8, 2005
    star 4
    Don, I don't know if it's just me, but I didn't see the link... edit or re-post?

    I still never liked how TF.N doesn't allow you to edit after some time. What's the point of that, lol. Like people would go back 360 days later to mess things up, lol. I've wanted to re-edit before only to update or fix "old" info... such as on a thread that initially is posting about information and links change or some numbers change or... whatever, and so forth. Oh well. ANYhow. I digress, lol.
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