Official C3 X-Wing Restoration Project Planning Thread

Beth, Chico and I were there today and fixed a lot of things. Steer clear of that really light, almost white gray. I brought in a can of light grey paint and it works well. Just have to work details.

My Code 3 X-Wing is now on display with the bird. Feel free to use it as a good base painting model (you can take it out of the case and examine it, but be careful that loose panels do not fall off and get lost or broken) and we'll detail her up from there. Just please treat it well and don't lose any of the loose parts. Ensure it cannot be touched from outside the roped area.

Things that need done:
-Looks like we need a can of reddish rust-brown for some small areas (I taped off one wing area that needs that color).
-The five rectangles on the lower left wing needs painted black or really dark gray (chico and I marked them off).
-Beth started the wording behind the left photon tube (the exact Aubresh is posted above it... Keep the letters about 1" tall like she started, but I think they should probably be black instead of red). This is for honoring our fallen FF, RL, and 501st Members. I think the right side should be for fallen actors from the OT (Does that sound ok?). Just as long as the list doesn't start wrapping under the bird.
-Dirty up the Robin's Egg blue canopy by lightly dry brushing some black in a few spots, then wiping it almost all off with a cloth. Then we'll hit it with a sander.
-Chico is going to make the boots for the landing gear.
-We need to fab a dashboard for the cockpit as seen on the Code 3 model. Should only be 4 pieces of MDF and some greebles. Make sure the canopy shuts with it installed and that a person can still fit in the cockpit (I believe they should if you fab it right).
-Hyperdyne is working R2's electronics and dome
-Tim is working the engine LED clusters
-Hyperdyne and I will be working the multimedia aspect (sounds, lights, etc.)
-Canopy needs modified to close all the way and the struts need re-installed to hold the canopy up when on display.
-Missing body panels need to be made (just cut some flat wood panels to fit) and paint them. Leave the underbody (cockpit) panel open as that's the access to the electronics board and power supplies that Hyperdyne installed and we'll need to get in there to do the wiring.
-The front landing gear needs two long rectangular boards cut and installed for landing gear doors. These hang vertically (up and down) on the outside left and right of the front landing gear hole.
-Panels need painted and detailed to show wear and tear. Stipple-brush lightly with black, and buff off most of it with a cloth. Then lightly hit it with a sander. On parts that protude, lightly brush silver (shiny) paint on the edges to highlight them. Front of the bird gets the most friction wear.

I'll post a better listing of what needs done, but this should be enough to get you started.

The Volunteer list is in the case under the Code 3 X-Wing, as are reference pics if needed. When in doubt, call me. My numbers are written on the paper.

I think we're getting there and I'll post work pics later tonight so you all can see what we've done so far.

Kev

 

If anyone is going out tomorrow, give me a ring... I'm only 5 minutes from the museum, but I'm not up for working alone this time out

 

I will be in on Monday now, since the LED pack I need is available locally, and I need to test-fit one before I buy the whole lot of them!

 

I will probably come in Monday morning --I will work on finishing up the lettering. I needed a better brush for that small of fine detail work--there are small brushes there now but none are in as good a shape as I need for the lettering not to look sloppy. So if anyone goes today (Sunday) please leave the lettering to me on Monday or Tuesday. I have to go to work today so can't be there.
Kev--I agree that the lettering should be black instead of red.

 

Cool. I was hoping that you wouldn't mind, Beth. We just looked at it again and thought black would match the bird better and not be so obvious.

-It's been suggested that we tackle the undersized engine intakes, but I seriously doubt we can do this during this round of repairs.

-I'd like to make the wings pivot from cuising to attack positions, but yet again, doubtful we can pull it off in time, although it'd be cool to automate the process using actuators. The wings currently weigh a ton, and it'd involve lightening them up a bit.

-Consider patching the engine pods (on top of the bird) that were damaged when someone attempted to winch the bird and broke off portions. You'll need a fiberglass repair kit (methinks it's fiberglass and NOT rubber, but Tim can clarify this).

-Locate a suitable ladder for the bird and paint it the correct color. This is the ladder (on the Code 3 Model in the black box in the cabinet under it) or in the pic where Luke is climbing up into the cockpit. It's just painted dark red.

(Beth)- Add Javier Cruz to 'The Fallen' list. Go ahead and feel free to add more than one name to a line as long as it looks ok to you. I'd separate the names with a comma (or equivalent Aubresh). When the list gets too long (in the far future), we'll continue the list on the other side of the bird.

I think we're coming around the bend on her and she's starting to flesh out correctly. I think by the time we're done, she'll be prefect.

Thanks for all your help, gang!

 

Hey All

Let me know the dimensions of the Front Landing Gear doors. I will make them here and bring them up to assemble there. I can use any pics of the landing gear themselves if you can get me some. Other than that I'm good. Later Days...

 

I went out yesterday and am going out today. I am going to get some black paint that is latex/acryllic. I do not want to use oil! That was all that was there. I repainted over the wing with the black panels and remeasured all the panels so that they are all even and uniform--they were not all the same size and there were different shades of gray which really bothered me so I repainted the entire wing using the second darkest gray that we had. I did not want to use the darkest can that was floor paint. We will now need to repaint all the others to match and then dirty them up.
Kev, Hate to tell you but too much glue was used to glue on the little circles. It is unfortunatly a mess--it ran and dripped and is nice and sticky. Plus there is a small section of gray that was painted near where I will be painting the lettering that seems to be too shiny. I am guessing that it was the floor paint that was used?? It seemed very noticeable to me. I think we need to use all the same sheen of paint--ie. flat or satin but not glossy or it will look very odd having spots look much shinier than others. If we paint all the grey areas with too many different paints it is not going to look uniform and look like a patchwork quilt. If needed I will paint all the grey over with the same color. Sorry to be so picky but if we want to do this right--we need to do it right or it is going to look worse than when we started in my opinion.

 

I completely agree, BB, but I am concerned as to how we are going to redo these sectionals without starting from scratch? Perhaps I can sand the finish to allow for overcoating with the proper paint? And is there any way you could identify which paint-type comprises the base coat? That way we could match the paints exactly.

 

Actually it's supposed to look like a patchwork quilt. According to the Smithsonian X-Wing model, at least 3-5 shades of gray was used, then detailed.

The reasoning behind this is to get the real-world look, when damage occurs to body panels, the maintenance crew pretty much used whatever color material was around to turn it around and make it flight-ready again in a nominal amount of time.

There's a fine line between making it look realistic or too cartoony, but we're aiming for realism. Once we start to sand, detail, and smudge black on her, it'll even up the paint job for a good overall effect.

The Code 3 X-Wing is simply for reference and base paint coat, but we'll use the Smithsonian pics to detail it better once we have a good foundation.

Don't get too discouraged that it will look bad. Tim, Stacy & I discussed it (and fought about it), but in the end, the patchwork idea is what looks real.

As for the glue, we know it dripped a bit and planned on hitting it with a sander to eliminate that. Those circles were used for refueling, and the plan was to make them look as if they were 'leaking' fuel.

We're pretty much using any paint we can find (and I would agree that water-based paints (latex/acrylic)are the only ones that should be used for easy cleanup - no need for thinner).

The 'floor paint' is ok, and actually is closer to the actual shade we need despite being a bit thicker than normal paint. In the end, in my opinion, it will last longer anyways. And it was free. If anyone wants to buy some paint that same shade, I don't have a problem with it.

The only problem I have is wasting money buying the wrong shades/types of paint. It costs us more money and time to get the wrong shade to look right than it would to just get the right shade in the first place. Do NOT use the white grey, as it is really off. The robin's egg blue and yellow are ok, as they will be roughed out a bit when we detail her.

I just want to ensure that we're all on the same playbook here so people aren't redoing work that has already been done, which will lead to one big mess. When in doubt, please call me - (719) 556-8403 or PM Tim and I'll make sure we're working in the same direction as a group.

You can also feel free to disagree with any of the plans, and we'll vote on it, but in the end there must be a decision made. Tim and I will have to make the hard decisions after taking in the group's inputs.

Kev

 

Do you need more reference photos from the Smithsonian X-Wing? I have a ton on a disk somewhere and I can try to dig them up before Saturday if that will help... And for the record, the patchwork thing is what is gonna work best IMHO... Remember, one of the most remarkable things about Uncle Georgie's SW Universe was that it had been LIVED IN. It wasn't the whole being started from scratch, it was a Long Time Ago... Brand Spankin' New is what you can do w/ a Tie Fighter, but not our cobbled together Rebellion filled with battered and bruised spacecraft.

 

Yeah Zoo. I have photos too and was trying to burn you a reference CD of all the pics I have from our X-Wing events but my laptop wasn't playing well on Saturday.

What I'm looking for are high resolution pics where we can see some detail. Ones posted on the web are often too small to pic out details, but it's all we have to work with at the moment.

Keep in mind the Smithsonian bird is missing some physical details, but paint scheme-wise she's awesome.

 

A CD will be waiting for you at the party this weekend

I have a ton of stuff, since I go on these mad research binges and grtab everything I can get my hands on until the wee hours of the morning

 

Well I did a litttle more work on it today. I painted the black panels and got some of the lettering painted. I had to tape over the first line while doing the second and when I pulled it off it took off bits of the paint I had just painted---but actually I think I will leave it that way as it makes it look older. The lettering is very time consuming and not going as quickly as I thought so I didn't get it finished today.
And if everyone else wants patchwork--OK. But I do think the dripping glue should be gone. In my opinion, dripping fuel would not look like a sticky goo and I doubt most people would know that is what is supposed to represent. I think they would think it just looks like messy sticky glue. Or as Jar Jar would say "OOOH, Icky Icky Goo".

 

Thanks for doing a wonderful job on the lettering. I've already gotten some very good responses on the tributes from the 501st, RPF, and R2 Builders Group. Everyone seems to agree that it's a fitting tribute to fans who left before their time.

And trust me, the goopy glue will be gone on Saturday once I can fix it up (we need a sander). But I can do it by hand if necessary.

The darned 90 second epoxy was not in practice as it was named. Poor Chico and I had to hold them in place almost 20 minutes before they took hold. But they'll stay there forever now.

They do need detailed, and I'll get to that this weekend (perhaps Friday).

If not already done, we'll need to add Javier Cruz to 'the fallen' list.

I'll look at my task list (already posted) and add more things that I had on my original list here tomorrow.

Kev

 

Sounds like it's really coming together. I will be more available to work on the bird come the first of the year, once Holiday festivities have passed.

 

I'll pretty much be working on her every Saturday that I can get in up until the first week of January (then I have to go to Vegas to cover the Consumer Electronics Show).

I may have some spare days off here and there to do some work during the week, but we'll see what happens there.

Once we get the damage repaired and missing panels fabbed and painted, we can start detailing and dirtying her up. I suspect I'll be able to make the missing panels this weekend.

Kev

 

I am a ditto on the first of the year business...

 

I doubt you will be able to do any work this Saturday (the 18th) as there was a sign on the door saying the museum is closed due to a private event on Saturday. Besides that is the day of our holiday meeting, which you really should come to!
I don't expect to be able to go anytime again until after Christmas myself. I'm doing pet pictures again on Sunday and will need to work on getting them printed and matted and ready for pick up before Christmas. So that will take up all my time besides working at the store.

 

Hehe. I guess I'll have Saturday off then! After Christmas it is...

 

ok cool, that will give me time to finish up the motor controller board and test it out with the motor before lugging it all out there. I also have a mains power plug that will fit nicely to plug everything in with.

The sound board is assembled, I just need to test it out. Kev, if you have any input on the sound selections, let me know. Right now I have 2 motion sensors (one for each side) that will trigger R2 sounds. I have one motion sensor for the back that will trigger xwing engine/flight/gun sounds.

Jim

 

Hey Jim! Thanks again for all of your hard work on getting R2 in gear. I'm sure everyone will appreciate all your hard work and it adds that level of detail that pops our bird above the crowd.

As far as sounds go, I'd just pick something that sounds cool to you. We'll still have to figure out an inexpensive speaker solution, but I have access to tons of them here (very nice wattage PC Speakers) at work that should be good. I'll grab a set and bring them with me for testing next time I go up there. Maybe I'll get a set for the front and the back for directional playback.

We'll figure something out. I forget if we put a power strip in or not, but if not, I'll bring one of those in as well (had one in the back of my truck).

I really appreciate everyone's help in helping out. Kudos for a job well done so far!

Kev

 

Yes, kudos to all who have lent their time, energy, and talents to this project.


I also love how we are doing so much to repair the bird, just so we can make it look damaged again...

 

We are making her whole... That does not mean it won't be a little battered in the process

 

What are the exact days and times that we work on the x-wing?

 

Kev, I have 2 5" speakers for the sound board that have built in grills. So they can be mounted somewhere (inside or out) and they will look professional. If you want to use multiple speakers that you have we can do that too.

I have found that the best sized speaker for the sound board is somewhere around a 5"-8" speaker. I have used 5 1/4", 6x9, and even an 8" woofer w/ tweeter and they all sound good (depending on the application). For R2 sounds the smaller tweeters or full range speaker will be louder. But for the xwing sounds you may want a bit more bass. It all depends, we could even just use a woofer in back for xwing sounds and 2 tweeters for R2 up front. That would add to sound directionality too as only engine noise would come out the back and R2/gun sounds would play up front.

There is a power strip inside already, but I have an IEC receptacle + cord (like the power outlet on the back of your computer) that can be mounted on the outside so you just "plug her in".

Let me have some feedback, as I have all the different speakers combos in my lab (since I use them in other props). Easy to bring them in and hook em up...