simple but convincing...?!

Me and my friend was thinking of recreating the Obi-wan/ Anakin fight for the school variety show. I have a white and a black martial arts gi and was wondering if there are any ways we can make them simple, but convincing for the audience. we want them to look real, because not only the school but the county comes... or should we put all the work into it to make them all..say...Just like the real things. so thaat if we get too close they won't see the littlest issues with them... and how...I've did one once..but it's not the greatest..I'm better with the sabers. HELP!!!?!?!?!?!


*-*-*ROCK ON!*-*-*

 

generic, but true: Don't go nuts on the details for a stage performance. The audience won't see half of what goes into it, and wif you're fighting they'll see even less. Most people aren't aware of the details anyway, so as long as you can get something that's in the spirit of the costumes you're duplicating you'll look fine on stage.

Just do some layering to get the look and don't sweat the fine print.

 

okay..thank you...I'm looking all over the internet now for a costume...thanx..now let mesa see what I could do...heh heh

BACK IN BLACK!

 

Is this gonna be live action, or recorded, cause if its recorded I might be alittle more focused on the effects.

 

What kind of lightsabers do you make?

 

I'd say black and white gi's would be fine for that. Dirty up the white one a bit (maybe with diluted Rit dye) and get some dark brown vinyl for Anakin's tabards.

 

it's gonna be a live performance, in our school auditorium...and the sabers..I kinda make the ones they make for fighting in the movies, before the Special FX...but for this one, i'm trying to get two Force FX..and you said to get some Dark Brown for the Black one...and the white one to dirty it up a bit...I was thinking..since they're fighting in lave, to burn them a bit..both..and do you have any ideas for what I could do about my friend? shes got a bit long hair for Obi-Wan..yes..we're girls playing guys... I've already got a shorter haircut..but her..she doesn't want to.. any ideas how to hide some of it at the least?

and i'm working on the costumes now...just need to find out how to burn them a bit...and.. I just heard that they are taking pictures for the yearbook afterwards...now what? more details..

U KNOW!

 

Prop sabers from movies before special effects... like metal poles? Not exactly what I was looking for. As for your friend's hair, you could maybe try combing it back and tying up anything that hangs out. I don't know what she looks like of course, so I don't know what pointers to give. It really all depends on how long her hair is.

 

a little past shoulder length..which is bad for her..cause she's gonna be Obi-Wan...she doesn't know how to do a flip..she's gonna leave that to me... right color too..just too long... should I just get her to pull it back and gel down what ever shows? and then make the top loose, but messy? and any tips for burning the costumes?

U KNOW!

 

Interesting... I just posted my "Quick-n-dirty Jedi Costume" tutorial last night, in the Phoenix Fan Force message board. I'll cut and paste:

Boots = spats made from vinyl. PFF member LordParsec and his dad sell these for fun. (PM LordParsec from the link I provided.) These are awesome, and the price is right! You will need a basic brown shoe (or color to match the spats) to wear. Make sure they're comfortable shoes, or add insoles.

Pants = generic khakis that can be found anywhere from Needless Markup (Neiman Marcus) to Eddie Bauer to TJ Maxx, Ross, and your own closet. Yes, really. All of the Jedi pants on screen are off-the-shelf khakis bought at various department stores. Make sure they're tan khakis, or that they match whatever the color scheme is that you're working with. You obviously don't want to put green-ish tan pants with light-tan tabbards... unless you want to look like the color-blind Jedi that gets dressed in the dark.

Shirt and Tabbards
1. First layer - a long-sleeve cotton t-shirt. This can be a V-neck or a crew-neck. Either way, make sure it's white and 100% cotton. Because it's going to be dyed. You don't want it to be too heavy, either. A good light-weight (or summer-weight) long-sleeve shirt will work great.

2. Kimono-style wrap top - a basic, light-weight white karate gi. You can find these at karate supply stores, or dig them up at thrift stores or on eBay. Again, make sure it's 100% cotton, so that it dyes easily. (Most gi's are 100% cotton, or a cotton/poly blend - try to find 100% cotton.)

3. Tabbards and cloth belt - Three long strips of 100% cotton muslin cloth, either folded in thirds length-wise (to a width of 6 to 10-inches, depending on the person - you'll want to press the folds), or cut very carefully to the desired width. Each person is different, so you'll want to get enough fabric so that the tabbards hang correctly (about 12-inches beyond the waist for adults), and the belt goes around the waist with a bit of extra. PIN PIN PIN!! Safety pins are you friends for holding the tabbards and belt in place, and to keep it all from slipping off shoulders. These will also be dyed.

4a. Pre-wash the long-sleeve shirt, the karate gi top and the muslin fabric using detergent and 1 to 2 cups of white vinegar (yes, really). This will take all the "finish" off of the fabrics, and allow the dye to take. DO NOT USE FABRIC SOFTENER!!!

4b. Rit Dye in "Tan" or "Khaki," or whatever color you decide to go with. Follow the directions on the box EXACTLY (they're not hard), and proceed with the dye process for the long-sleeve shirt, the gi top, and the muslin fabric. Yes, it's better to do it all at once so that it all matches. Make sure you have enough dye (one box, or half of a liquid bottle should be plenty - unless you're doing several costumes at the same time).

Leather/vinyl Belt - talk to Joel (LordParsec) about purchasing a belt that matches the faux boots. Buckles can be found at any fabric store in the "Notions" section, near needles, hooks-n-eyes, and belt webbing. Buckles are cheap.

Before assembling to wear, go through and PRESS ALL OF THE PIECES!!! Unless you want to look like you just rolled out of bed.

In all, this whole process should take about 2 days maximum, and shouldn't cost more than $50. And, yes, it's all customizable to what you want your costume to look like.

ENJOY!!!!

 

For burning effects on cloth like obi outfit for example you could use burned ashes I suppose, and just rub that into the fabric where you want it to look burned.

 

Charcoal (for light clothing) works great as well, and should wash out easily... you can even use it on the skin, but a little simple water-based cream makeup can work too for smudges and so forth...

As to sabers, Zelda... I recommend (HIGHLY) Luxeon style sabers. Conversions if they must be, but those Force FX sabers will easily break, and let me explain exactly how:

* The polycarbonate blade will most likely NOT break. Again--will likely NOT break.
* It is the LED "array" or sequence set that you need to worry about--but the LEDs themselves likely will still NOT break!
* When the "blades" bend during collision--enough stress will cause the solder joints connecting the LEDs to their wiring--to fail.
* When the "blades" bend during collision--the wiring can be pulled, and literally pop out of the solder joint

So (ironically), it is not the polycarbonate's fault... nor is it even the LEDs in the design! It is the weakness of the wiring and solders...

Then you're asking, ok buster--so what's so great about this "Luxeon" setup? Simple. No architecture in the "blades". The Luxeon-style saber (which is only made in custom shops) is powered by a 1-watt, 3-watt (or even 5-watt, but I don't recommend), single LED housed in the hilt, focused up the polycarbonate shaft. There is nothing to break... unless of course you're planning on smashing the hilts onto lampposts or something!!

Visit TF.N's own LED Q&A forum here:
http://boards.theforce.net/costuming_and_props/b10019/21080099/p40/?985

Good luck. They are certainly more expensive--but worth the "non-fragile"ness... and clearly will last much, MUCH longer.

 

this helps..thank you...now..to get all of it together... if there is anything you can tell me for my friend's hair issues please..I beg you...POST!!!

 

Okay..my friend decides to change it..right before we go back to school and audition...she wants to actually (her jump me flip) get off the stage and fight through the aisles between the seats..to give the audience a nice scare...so...so I need ideas for a REALLY close up performance..looks liek I need every little detail..right?

 

It's not going to be a broadway performance...I'm sure you'll be just fine without "screen-accurate" details. Just do your best with what you have and I'm sure it will come out looking great! They're going to be more fixated on the actual fighting than the costumes themselves. No worries.

 

That's what I'm worried about...as well as costuming. This is her first..I've been sword fighting longer...we had to "fix-up" Obi-wan's part for her... I had to be Vader..but This is the first time on stage...and my last in the middle school..and I want it remebered by everyone...

you think it will pass with just the basic costume? No really big details?

 

I don't see why not. If I saw two people running all over a stage and down through the crowd fighting with lightsabers....I'd be very impressed with it. No matter how detailed the costumes are.

Now, are you going to have someone video tape it? I wouldn't mind seeing the finished project! That would be neat!

 

1. I'd have to get one of our family members to do it...the ones for the school, that are shown the day afterward aren't for sale

and 2. I dunno if we'll even get past auditions... I'm really the one fighting..she just stands there.

but, I might just do a special with a Force FX if she decides not to. I have to wait till I hear her decision to maek the costumes.

but, If I have any performance i'll try to put it on a site and link you to it...

My friend says I'm intimidating enough without her...I'm waiting on a final decision..and now wondering if I made this thread for nothing.