Republic Commando armor help

I seem to have a lot of time on my hands lately, and I have been wanting to make a Republic Commando armor for quite some time. I figured this would be a unique project to get started on, but I have no idea whatsoever of how to do it. I have looked at many stormtrooper armor tutorials on the net but so far they aren't helping. I don't have much money or access to the supplies these sites recommend. I would greatly appreciate it if somebody could help me out with this problem, and give me some ideas on how to make this costume.(I really don't care much about the helmet, just the armor). Any help I recieve will be useful to me and I will be very thankful.

 

dont know if this will help u but.......plastic trash cans from Wal-mart. they're like $10. they have the right curve to them to fit ur chest, legs, stomach, etc.., make a practice copy on cardboard then trace it on the plastic. cut it out then paint it however u choose. try that at see how it works

 

I just finished playing this game and I LOVED it! A costume is a great idea. But the only way I could help you would be to show you these beauties that I found on http://web.ukonline.co.uk/bingo275/clonefan.htm

[image=http://web.ukonline.co.uk/bingo275/DecJanFeb06/SJPWT-BatsandDad007.jpg]

[image=http://web.ukonline.co.uk/bingo275/DecJanFeb06/Fixerbelowangle.jpg]

[image=http://web.ukonline.co.uk/bingo275/DecJanFeb06/dfxrrepubliccom01.jpg]

Here's a helmet from ebay a while back:
[image=http://i8.ebayimg.com/03/i/04/8a/55/50_1_b.JPG]

You could try emailing the fans who made those - maybe they'd help out. Also as a reference, you could try and pick up the Scorch action figure that just came out:
http://images.entertainmentearth.com/%5CAUTOIMAGES%5CHS85770Clg.jpg

Good luck with the costume!

-Kyle

 

I know this is technically cheating on the costume, but rubies makes a foam filled muscle/armour suit for the clone trooper for about 65 bucks. you could use the molded shapes of the muscle suit to make casts of the armour out of fiberglass.

Its a quick way to get what your looking for!

 

A 4 x 8 sheet of .090 SINTRA is about 30 bucks. You can shape it with boiling water. It can even be vac molded but you won't get much detail. Make your pieces out of posterboard first. You will get some idea about the way the sheet plastic will behave without heating it. Don't expect to get any complex curves like shoulder bells. The way to get those cheap is to get some toy batting helmets and cut what you need from those. If you will check the thread on first generation costumers, you can see where I have done just that only with some polystyrene that I got out of the trash at the plastics factory where I worked at the time.

If you can't get Sintra (PVC sheets) try aluminum flashing. you can get it at the hardware store, but it's not as cheap as it used to be. The cool thing about flashing is that it can be cut with scissors. If you go with these materials, make sure that you use backing washers (some folk call 'em "burrs") with your pop rivets otherwise they'll pull right through.

 

where can I find the thread on first generation costumers?

 

http://boards.theforce.net/costuming_and_props/b10019/23145730/p1/?11

This ought to take you there. It's currently on page 2

 

I know you're not making Mando armor, but over at The Dented Helmet someone made some Fett armor out of el cheapo trash cans from wal-mart. It looked better than some of the Sintra stuff. You could probably do the same for your clone armor. You'd just need more trash cans.

EDIT: Oops, seems someone already said that!

 

The S.C.A. armour that I'm currently fighting in is made from two used black plastic chemical barrels. Basically the same concept as your trash can 'ceptin' these are 1/4 inch thick. you can dish out parts by heating them in the oven. and the barrels are often around 5 bucks. Mine were free 'cause I fished 'em outta the Ohio river during flood season.

 

5 bucks , I'd try and find a farm supplies store and see if I couldn't get them there. We get ours for free from Sterling Farm Equipment. Though you won't find that anywhere else in the US, you should be able to find Farm Equity places, which should either have them for free, or real darned cheap.

 

How long do you heat the plastic in the oven for, and at what temperature? Does this make the plastic pliable enough to shape? If you have any pictures of your SCA armor could you post them, because I would really like to see them.

 

Let me dig it out. Time to start repairing it for the warm weather. I heat mine in a 220-250* oven. It stinks to high heaven so open a window. After about 15-20 minutes the plastic will get about as pliable as wet leather. I have a stainless steel bowl that I've dished the bottom out on so it is totally round. Spray it with some pam for lubrication and throw the plastic into the bowl and use something round to waller it around in the bowl real good like. I've got a big aluminum fence finial that I liberated from somebody's garbage. When you've got the right shape, throw it in cold water immediately. This will set the shape. I've taken knee cops that I've made this way, put them in the freezer for 8 hours and wailed on them with a small sledge hammer. They will not break. Pix are forthcoming.

 

[image=http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/navarre1095/PCDV0364.jpg]
Here is the finial and the dished-out bowl for shaping the plastic.
[image=http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/navarre1095/PCDV0363.jpg]
These are 1/4 inch thick and to my knoweledge unbreakable.
[image=http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/navarre1095/PCDV0365.jpg]
Here is my Churburg Breast and back badly in need of maintenance.
[image=http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/navarre1095/PCDV0368.jpg]
You can take advantage of details on the barrels to create a cooler look. This armour is not much to look at but it will get you on the field and gettin' yore butt whooped in less than a week. It is cheap, easy to cut out, and like the other feller said you can cover it with a snazzy tabard while you dish out the stainless steel. This stuff has lasted in full-contact combat for years.
[image=http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f247/navarre1095/PCDV0367.jpg]
This helm is 12 gauge on the skull. The cheek and backplate are 14 gauge. I made everything except the grill. The bar grill was swapped for some chainmaille work

 

that armor looks really good. Thank you for all the ideas, I really appreciate the help. I think I have enough to get started on my armor, but I have just a few last questions. What do you cut the plastic out with? Do you cut the shape of the armor piece after you have molded the plastic, or before you mold it? And what do you handle the plastic with when it is just out of the oven? Because I know it will be really hot.

Thanks again for all the help. Hopefully I can post some pics when I finish my armor.

 

First of all, this stuff is hot, hot, HOT so wear lined gloves and learn to love the pain. Cut the plastic first with a jigsaw, actually any saw will do. Drill a hole at the corners to make it easier to pivot the saw blade (use a scroll blade[for wood] on your jigsaw). The edges may deform a bit so you can make 'em a little big and grind off the parts you don't like. heat polish the edges with a blowtorch. For the breastplate you really don't need to heat anything. Use the natural shape of the barrel to work for you. for instance, the middle piece is actually cut horizontally and turned vertical. When I fastened it to the other pieces going the other direction it gives the breastplate that globose look. If you're not planning on getting clobbered in this, may I suggest Sintra? If there is a sign shop near you they will have it in abundance and it will be much easier to work. Plus, with PVC glue you can add lots of nifty detail to the armour. It also shapes with boiling water