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Stunt Sabers

Discussion in 'Costuming and Props' started by Primrodo, Aug 27, 2002.

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  1. Primrodo

    Primrodo Jedi Master star 4

    Registered:
    Jun 23, 2002
    I found an interesting thread in the ASAP forums, but since I do not know if I can just popst a link I'll plagerize :)

    On the topic of the blades used, whether for film-use or hardware stunt sabers, and their subsequent integrity of the blades and the hilts.
    Here's a photo of the sabers used in The Phantom Menace.

    [image=http://starwars.com/episode-i/snapshot/2000/03/img/manysabers_bg.jpg]

    The resin casts had 3/8" steel rods running through them, which stuck out of the hilt about 6-8", and then a hollow aluminum tube 3/4" outer diamater was slipped over it. That way, if the tube bent while fighting (which it did a lot), they could just unscrew the aluminum blade and attach another.

    Most fan-film stunt sabers are of a much more simple design. They usually are just a metal hilt (either one or two tubes, one inside of the other), that holds a 5/8" or 3/4" (the correct diameter) wood dowel for sparring. These "blades" are much tougher than the aluminum rods used in filming, but are a bit heavier than the aluminum rods, so you can't necessarily do the lightning fast twirls that they do in the film (unless you're pretty strong/pretty good).

    I'd appreciate it if you guys would share your thoughts on stunt blades, whether aluminum, wood, PVC, etc.

    From what I've seen, about half of folks' first hardware sabers are aimed at holding a stunt blade (as opposed to a hardware static hilt). In fact, all of my personal hardware sabers can (and most do) hold 3/4" wood dowels, and are tough enough for sparring.

    [image=http://home.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/20/20300/folders/8921/156055stuntsabE1.jpg]
    [image=http://home.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/20/20300/folders/8921/151072stuntmaulsjedinet.jpg]
    [image=http://home.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/20/20300/folders/8921/151027Maulstunt01.jpg]
     
  2. Jauhzmynn

    Jauhzmynn Jedi Padawan star 4

    Registered:
    Jun 16, 2002
    Thanks Primrodo. Good reserch.

    Humm, cool pics. I guess us fans can make better stuff then the movies. <VBG> Well I don't care if my hilt is metel and heavier then the resin ones. I'll just build up more strength using it.<VBG> Just think, training on a heavy hilt then going to a resin one, you WILL be fast.<G>

    Too bad there aren't many around me I can practice with. :(

    Jauhzmynn


     
  3. JediG60racer

    JediG60racer Jedi Master star 4

    Registered:
    Apr 9, 2002
    re: aluminum shafts for stunt blades...
    You can get a 3/4" aluminum rod at any store that sells BBQ grills and rotisseries. I recommend a solid one rather than hollow, as it takes hits with only dings instead of bending or breaking like the hollow variety.
     
  4. Primrodo

    Primrodo Jedi Master star 4

    Registered:
    Jun 23, 2002
    True but with this method, teh stress is put on the sleave not the hilt.

    I know what you are saying...but this is a great alternative, as teh blade is stable and secure, it will hold straght as opposed to screwing in the hilt :)

    Not saying your idea doesn't work, it does. This one just tends to be safer as well, and lighter :)

    Justin
     
  5. ChancellorGoauld

    ChancellorGoauld Jedi Grand Master star 4

    Registered:
    Jul 6, 2002
    In a lot of stunts in AOTC they didn't use a full length blade - only a short blade maybe 1 foot long to guide ILM in which direction the saber was pointing.
    Obviously not for fight scenes, but for things like the geonosian factory sequence, where all the actor had to do was stand in front of a blue screen and twirl his sabre really fast, with digital enemies added later.
     
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