No, i'm not discriminating against women. In fact, ladies are welcome to comment as i'm sure you'll see things that us lads cannot. In short, i'm at a stage of my life where within the next 18 months i'll be coming out of Uni and into the corporate world so i'm shopping around for some threads. So, most of this year is going to be spent saving for work suits since of those I have are too large or out of style (I've lost 30kg in the previous two years). I have a good idea about fashion but when it comes to suits i'm needing help. Not that i'm totally ignorant. I know what looks good but its enduring quality is where i'm struggling. At the moment, at least in Australia, Mohair-Wool blends are in fashion because we are producing premium quality Mohair. All the major labels (Gucci, Armani, and Zegna) are doing them. So, which way do I go? The labels i'm interested in are Gucci, Zegna, Tom Ford, Brioni, Burberry, and Armani. I'm hoping to get two or three by June of 2017. Here's where it gets tricky: I love Zegna and Tom Ford, but both use the same manufacturer. I like Gucci for their Mohair blends but i'm concerned about their ongoing quality. In Italian sizes, i'm 44 in the hips (which I think is the smallest?). So size isn't a problem. Where should I go?
HELLO. Mohair tonics are nice in that they add a bit of a sheen to the suiting. They are in fashion now given the interest in mod suits from the 1960s. Personally, I would avoid buying OTR suits. Nothing is as good as a bespoke cut suit. First thing you should do is find a tailor. You're going to pay AU$4000 or more for a Tom Ford suit, so you could pay 1/4 of that for a jacket and trousers cut to your style and using premium suiting. You should chat about fabrics and look through the fabric swatches. I tend to prefer a wool/cashmere blend and usually go for a 120 weave. (You'll find that suit wool is measured this way - 100s, 110s, 120s, 130s, etc. That's just the fineness of the weave; the higher the number, the finer the weave. The finer the weave, the silkier the feel but that also means the higher susceptibility to wearing through). You also need to know what style you want cut. Zegna will cut suits in the Italian style, which means usually slim cut, notched lapels, padded shoulders with a roped sleevehead, higher gorge, and often no vents. So in other words the Italian cut is very "right now" and usually worn by dudebro idiots who think going to the horse races makes them sophisticated (try owning horses next time lads). At all costs avoid the American or sack suit cut. It's horrid. Tom Ford, an American designer, cuts in the British style so you should infer that style and American suits aren't on the same page. The British cut is a lot more traditional and classy. Lower gorge, usually buttons 3 with the first button rolled, no padding, and double vents. Slightly fuller cut, but not in a baggy and shapeless way like the sack suit. There's been a growing trend to use Chinese tailoring of late. Boutique outfits pop up, take your measurements and send it off to China to be made. I've had one suit made this way, and it cost me around AU$1200 (I tend to get the best fabrics, and of course functional button holes so people know I'm a git it's bespoke). Whilst this is a good way to get a number of actually well made bespoke suits, it really requires you to know your suits, suiting, and cuts beforehand to avoid disappointment. I would suggest then going to Oscar Hunt. You'll spend about $1500 on a suit there, but it will fit perfectly.
Actually Ford suits are around the $5400 mark. Same with Brioni. I'm definitely wanting the Savile Row look which is something Zegna kind of seem to be channeling in their skinnier cuts. Of course. they're unabashedly Italian in their overall look but they do have a British finish to them, mainly in the label areas and the shoulders. It's certainly a less greasy look than the horrendous Euro-trash Versace style (that's what you get for assassinating your head guy). Any thoughts on Gucci, Ender? I love their cuts but i've heard some more mixed reviews on their lasting quality. Burberry suits anyone? Very nice English cut, but I question the material.
Skinny is not Saville Row; the British cut is in fact fuller in the chest than the skinny cut, which is Italian. If you get any of these brands - I have a really nice Herringbone suit, and two Boss suits - you're paying for the label. Well, no, with Tom Ford you're also paying for excellent suiting - I've no idea where he sources his wools from but they're the best. (Note; people use suiting as if it means the construction of the suit. It doesn't. The suiting is the fabric the tailor uses.) But as a general rule the cuts are "one size fits all" and some minor alterations can be made to make it fit a bit better. If you want people to know you've got an expensive suit from a major fashion house, you'll need to make sure you do silly things like when you take the jacket off ensure that the label on the inside is visible. The cut won't always give it away. But you could get three bespoke suits, cut to your shape, size and taste for the price of a Tom Ford. Pray tell, what benefit does the Tom Ford have over the bespoke besides a name?
You can get three nice suits at Lowes for under $500. https://lowes.com.au/products.aspx?catid=1 The floral concept suit is my personal favourite and I wear it mostly on Fridays when the rest of the staff turn up in jeans
Well when you start out in your office career you have to get noticed, stand out from the crowd. Everyone wears Hugo Boss, Gucci, Armani suits. I tell you, since I've started wearing this little beauty I am the talk of the office.
The models used to showcase the suits speak for themselves. Compare and contrast the insipid and vaguely Twilight-ish male model wearing the Burburry suit compared to the masculine and macho model wearing the floral concept suit. Nuff said.
I have some pants and some shirts and some other ****. I have exactly three ties but I don't have shirts that they can be tied around or whatever.
Agree with the preference for English tailoring, or at least English-style tailoring. Oh god, I agree. I don't have Ender's disdain for OTR though, mostly for practicality's sake, but I'd agree that it's always better to go bespoke than to go for the brand. But if you can find an OTR that's the right style, I don't think there's a problem with that -- given the number of suits I need to go through, it's more useful for me to have several than just one.
But I resist Bespoke because well made Bespoke, especially if you're not living in anywhere like Soho, is hard to find. I know it's a typical consumerist mentality, and I realise there are some extremely talented tailors out there, but there's too much comfort to be taken in an established brand if you catch it at the right price.
As I said - I went with Institchu (one founder is ex-Mac Bank), and the suit was perfect. And I got an expensive option. Bespoke doesn't mean expensive. You just have to ensure it's not crap.
The thing is that the suit is only a part of the overall picture. It makes no sense to bother with bespoke tailoring but then go and get revolting skinny ties, awful shoes, silly multi-coloured shirts with button down collar and skull and crossbones cufflinks. You have to think Total Package. Also you have to be able tie a good knot, nothing screams "LOSER!" more than a skinny knot.
Exactly. Again, not dissing bespoke at all either, but that's the "security" you can have in a label because the shirts are ties are designed with those exact suits in mind. An outfit is only as good as its weakest link.
Well, that's why you know these things. You can't expect someone to design your wardrobe for you. Know which shirts work with which ensemble, what kind of knot is appropriate for which occasion and which collar, etc. There's only one way to learn it, and it's by experience. And fashion does evolve, you just have to have an eye for it if you're trying to do something different. I wouldn't recommend that for the workplace or for a formal event though, but there are other occasions for which innovation actually works (like a night out on the town, etc.). And while I have my own personal preferences, I -- and I probably differ from Ender here -- always say to go with what works for you, as well. Develop your own sense of style. (so long as it's style, and not wearing basketball shorts to the opera. Seriously, people do that.)
OK so for shirts you need to know how your complexion looks with certain shirts. I have a few striped ones but mostly I'm wearing poplin cotton white or blue shirts. Have a preferred shirt maker - mine is Thomas Pink, as I got measured there a few years ago. But your tailor should make them, if you can't find any off the rack. Herringbone are an excellent source of quality shirts. Don't wear colourful, fun socks. You'll look like a knob. Match your socks to your trousers instead. So, charcoal suit? Black socks. Grey suit? Grey socks. Navy or blue suit? Navy socks. Avoid skinny ties; they are en vogue now but won't always be. Similarly with knitted unless you can get one with a non-squared point and plain. I have a knitted navy tie with a point which I got from Herringbone and it's classic and classy. If you're unsure, ask for help with the options in store and reject any you instinctively view as "too flamboyant". Easy question for you; which Bond are you most like in complexion and colouring? EDIT: To further Iello's point; a) avoid button down collars; you're not American b) avoid baggy shirts; you're not American c) button, cocktail or French cuffs are all fine options. If you're wearing the latter, don't be That Idiot who wears either the elastic knot cufflinks or 'humourous' ones. I have mostly plain Boss or Geoffrey Beene ones. My most out there are some Thomas Pink ones with dark/light blue embroidery on them. But I was given some pewter R2D2 ones when I left Macquarie Bank and they're never getting worn. d) Never wear brown shoes and black belt or vice versa. Only Tunick would attempt this folly.
